It was another cold night and everything felt damp in the tent from the dew and condensation. I was half asleep when Oliver smacked the side of the tent to scare away a mouse sitting on top of his backpack in the vestibule. With both of us now awake, we got up at 6:30am to frost on the ground and frozen water filters. We were glad we had filtered our water the day before.
We stepped off at 7:30am and the fireweed was still frozen, saving us from getting soaked feet first thing in the morning. The climb out of Porcupine was challenging and slow. It took about an hour to reach the Citadel Pass junction and there was still more climbing to reach Citadel Pass. We still never saw any bears and continued to make noise to keep them away.
It took a long day to reach the Howard Douglas campground where we stopped for lunch. The outhouse was filled with mouse droppings but someone had created a lock with a stick, so there was that going for it.
Next was the climb up Quartz Hill and it was one of the steepest climbs up the shortest distance. We also heard something thumping around in the bushes across from us and pulled out our bear spray. The noise went away and we assumed we must have started a deer or some other animal that took off, but it got our hearts racing.
When we reached Sunshine Meadows we were excited to see some flat trail ahead but there was still some uphill in our future. When we reached the ski lifts, there were benches to sit on. Of course, we sat. Sadly, the Gondolas weren’t running at Sunshine Village, which is the usual mode of transportation when heading into town for resupply, so we had a road walk ahead of us. My knee wasn’t feeling great coming out of the meadows and definitely flared up on the long winding road. It was also a hot day and we were feeling the heat.
Maintenance vehicles from Sunshine Village and Parks Canada were driving the road, kicking up dust in our faces. Due to insurance issues, they weren’t allowed to give us a ride to the bottom of the mountain. One truck stopped and offered to take our packs and leave them at the building at the bottom and gave us directions to a shaded ski trail that we could take to get us out of the sun. We were appreciative and took them up on their offer.
We eventually got to the bottom, found our bags, and rested before walking up to the parking lot to wait for our trail angel who agreed to bring us in to Banff. We stayed at the Banff Aspen Lodge and decided to take a zero the next day, which allowed us to coordinate with our trail angel for a ride to the Floe Lake trailhead. It did mean shaving off a bit of the trail, but there was a closure at Egypt Lake campground because of bear activity and we would have needed to walk back up the ski hill road to get back on trail and we weren’t excited by that idea.
Once at the hotel we quickly realized we never packed town clothes, so we went to the thrift store and found some clothes to get by while we did our laundry. I spent a long time in the shower taking off layer after layer of dirt as the heat soothed my aching muscles. We also stopped at an Indian Restaurant where I experienced hiker hunger for the first time. I believe I entertained the folks sitting nearby as I practically inhaled a shareable portion of coconut rice and butter chicken. All I can say is, it felt so nice to be in a nice soft bed for the first time in six days and I knew it was only temporary.
Read more:
GDT C – Day 7 – Banff (Zero Day)
GDT C – Day 8 – Banff (Floe Lake Trailhead) to Floe Lake
GDT C – Day 9 – Floe Lake to Tumbling Creek
GDT C – Day 10 – Tumbling Creek to McArthur Creek
GDT C – Day 11 – McArthur Creek to Ottertail Trailhead