Hey readers! If you haven’t been watching our Youtube videos, you may not know that we did go to Arizona, and while we did start out at our intended start point, like all good plans, they did not survive contact with the enemy. The full story of our adventure on the AZT will be coming soon to this space, don’t worry, if you really really don’t want to go watch our Youtube videos.
This piece is coming from a look to the future. I (Oliver) am very future-motivated. I like to look ahead, plan, and dream about adventures to come. However, we have limitations right now, in this stage of our lives.
Current Limitations
Waiting for our kids to graduate. We have one finishing Grade 10 and two finishing Grade 9 right now, so we can’t just take off on a long thru-hike until they have graduated and are looking at their first steps into adulthood.
Our day jobs. Currently Cheryl gets 4 weeks of holiday per year and I get five. It won’t be until 2028 that Cheryl gets her fifth week. We can take unpaid leave if we want, but more paid leave would be best. There is a possibility of circumstances arising for us to do something longer sooner, if either of us gets sent out of country for work, as we get compensating leave before and after. But that isn’t predictable.
So with these limitations, and not wanting to spend more than 3 weeks in a go in this chapter of our lives, we have to dream of shorter trails: two week thru hikes, ones that we know we can’t get trail legs before finishing. That said, Here are some dream destinations we might get to do sooner:
Dream Two(ish) Week Thru Hikes
Resting up at the crest of Tornado Saddle, GDT Section B
North Coast Trail. 59km or so along the north coast of Vancouver Island. Very similar to the West Coast Trail, but free and much less crowded.
The O Circuit of Torres del Paine in Patagonia. We watched a video and were both dazzled by the 136km trail, and South America has been on my personal bucket list for a while.
Tour du Mont Blanc. A great excuse to go to Europe, circumnavigating the tallest peak in France. Clocking in at 170km, it looks glorious.
We both want to go back to the Great Divide Trail, after having done Section C in 2021. The most flexible section would be Section B, (195km) because it requires no reservations. I hiked half of it – from Coleman to Cache Creek before having to get my hiking partner out to catch a flight. I’d love to finish it, and share it with Cheryl.
So two of these two week thru hikes are “local” (in Canada) and two are international. That should take us through to 2028, when our calendars open up to longer opportunities. Honestly, we loved our time on the AZT and both want to come back and do the whole thing. We also both have an itch to do a big through hike. We have joked about one year she can do the Appalachian Trail while I do the Pacific Crest Trail… I don’t think any vlogging couples have ever simultaneously hiked two different trails and tried to edit their videos together!
When you are planning for a multi-day backcountry hiking trip, you need to make a few considerations before stepping onto the trail. You might want to jump straight to what gear you want to bring, but that there are other steps you should think through.
1. Choose Trails For Your Experience Level
Not everyone can make the PCT their first ever backcountry hike and successfully complete it. It takes time to find the right gear, get comfortable in the backcountry, know what you’re doing out there, and build your strength. Confidence is key in the backcountry. Get a few weekend hikes under your belt before you set out on a multi-day trip where you will have limited access to civilization. It is great to challenge yourself, but start slow and give yourself enough time to build up your “trail legs”. Pushing too hard, too fast can lead to injury. The goal is to have the best experience on trail and complete the distance you set for yourself.
2. Consider the Season and Elevation Where You’ll Be Hiking
In the winter months, you may find it hard to be stuck at home and not be hiking the trail. You might think about getting outdoors to get some camping days in. Be mindful of where the trail is and if it passes through mountainous areas. There are many trails, such as the PCT, that start out in the desert but increase in elevation as you go along. Because of the location and elevation of some long distance trails, you cannot start them in colder seasons. Do your trail research during your planning phase and choose trails that are safe for the time of year you are traveling.
3. Schedule Enough Time
Set realistic goals for yourself with the time you have available. When planning a multi-day backcountry trip, you need to not only factor in your days on trail, but any days you need to get to the trail and get home. Unless you have quit your job to hike or are retired, you have a finite number of vacation days to work around. Travel days can cut into your trail days. You may need to rethink which trail you choose, or how far you hike, based on your timeline. This may also impact how many zero or nero days you take on trail and how many miles you need to hike per day.
4. Set Your Budget
When planning for your hike, take a good look at your budget. A budget can be blown before you even set foot on the trail. Gear upgrades can be costly and when you’re dreaming of getting back on trail, you could be tempted to buy new gear. Calculate your meals and planned zero days. Factor in unexpected hotel stays due to weather or injury and other incidentals such as laundry. Don’t forget that there are still bills to pay when you’re away so the more you can save before your travel, the better. Backcountry camping doesn’t mean no costs. You still have shuttles and permits to consider and each expense adds up.
5. Review Your Equipment
Depending on where you choose to hike, you will want to check if you have the correct gear. If you are hiking where bear canisters are required for food storage, you will need to purchase a BearVault. If you are hiking in the winter, you will need to look at the rating of your sleep system and might need micro spikes or an ice axe. Since you are planning to hike over several days, weigh your pack and understand how much you are looking at carrying. A heavy pack might not be a big deal for a short hike. Carrying it for over a week, you may regret some decisions. If making new gear purchases, look for sales, find second hand gear, and confirm what you really need to bring with you. You don’t want to purchase something only to discover you are packing the extra weight for nothing.
6. Determine the Distance
By knowing where you are going, how fast you hike, the time you have on trail, and your budget, you can now understand how far you can go on trail. Now you need to take a good look at the map. Examine the elevation gains to estimate how difficult those miles will be. Note where campsites are located and if stealth camping is permitted. Also look for exit points in case you are falling behind or need to exit to get to a resupply.
A good look at the map also helps you to figure out where you might need to catch a ride either by hitchhiking or by getting a shuttle. Consult with online hiking groups for the trail such as on Facebook or through Apps. They will identify water sources and other trail information which will help you make additional estimates about where you might want to stop on the trail each night.
7. What Permits or Reservations are Required?
Some trails will require you to book permits to access the trail or make reservations for campsites. When planning for your hike, you need to factor in enough time to make the reservations you need for your hike. The Great Divide Trail requires reservations for backcountry sites in several sections. It is often challenging to get a couple of vital campsites which requires additional research for alternate routes and mile adjustment. Other trails require permits with specific start dates. This will change when you can get on the trail which could impact your vacation schedule with your employer.
8. Are You Hiking Solo or With Others?
While it is easier to only plan for yourself, sometimes it is more fun to hike with a friend. In this case, you need to bring your hiking partner into the planning process. Consider the experience of your hiking partner. Do they hike faster or slower than you? How much time do they have to hike? When looking at gear, will you share a tent or will you each bring your own? With two tents, you will need two reservations if they are required and you need to find a place to camp with enough space for both tents. Take into consideration what sights they want to see. You may end up taking a short side trip to a waterfall or a viewpoint to satisfy your partner’s curiosity.
9. Identify Your Logistical Requirements
While this was briefly mentioned before, you need to take a look at how you are getting on and off the trail. Many of the larger trail systems have Trail Angels. These are incredible volunteers who offer anything from shuttle services to accommodations and water stashes. You can find them on Trail Association websites or on Facebook. When you have your schedule figured out, you can begin to hunt around for Trail Angels to see if one is available. If not, you can use shuttles or taxis to get to the trail. Identify locations where you can either purchase a resupply of food or mail a box from home. Knowing the distance between resupply points will help you to determine how many days of food you will need to carry.
10. Prepare Physically and Mentally
During the months and weeks before your hike, get ready. Don’t wait until your feet hit the trail to get exercise. Being on trail for multiple days in a row is exhausting both physically and mentally. The wind battering your tent at night will leave you with little sleep. Tiredness can lead to injuries and poor decisions. There will be challenges on the trail, so give yourself a head start by going to the gym, walks… move. Do something to get your body ready for the stress you will be putting it under so it is one less thing for you to adjust to on the trail.
Final Thoughts
Planning for a backcountry trip should be a fun process. It is during this time that you can set goals, dream big, and get excited about the journey ahead. Yes, there are important considerations to make sure your trip goes smoothly, but ultimately, make sure you leave room for flexibility on trail. You never know what unexpected and exciting opportunities might arise.
When choosing a campsite in the backcountry, there are a few considerations to make. It isn’t always possible to set up camp wherever you feel like it. You also might make the mistake of setting up your tent in a spot that you will regret later. Below are some tips to help you make the best decisions when choosing a campsite.
Is Camping Permitted in the Area?
Sometimes you won’t find any campsites in the backcountry. This could simply be due to agencies deeming the area as sensitive or an animal corridor. When planning your hike, identify where camping is not permitted. This could add some complexity when you are determining the distance you must hike in a day. Do not set up a campsite in these areas unless it is an absolute emergency. Basically only set up your tent, if you are waiting to be rescued. Try your absolute best to exit these areas before you set up your campsite. Your feet and back might be tired from walking the extra miles to exit the restricted area, but respect the rules.
Do You Require a Permit or Reservation?
Depending on where you are hiking, you may need to pre-book your campsite. This can be challenging when you aren’t sure how far you will hike in a day and commits you to certain dates. If you are going faster or slower on your hike, you may find this frustrating.
Pay attention to when you you need to make reservations and note any alternates you may to take if the system says a campsite is full. Do your best to figure out your route, make the appropriate reservations, and carry your permits. You don’t want to be the reason that hikers get a bad reputation in the backcountry. Follow the rules.
Distance From Campsite to Campsite
Before your hike, review your map for pre-established sites. Also look at apps with hiker comments indicating spots not marked on an official map. With this information, you can consider your own hiking fitness to calculate how far you will be able to hike in a day. Look at your map and review the camping regulations for the area you are in to determine where you will stop for the night. You can either make a reservation if required, or you can find an unofficial campsite while on trail if permitted. The choice is up to you.
Choosing an Unofficial Backcountry Campsite
When you are in the backcountry and there are no marked campsites, you will need to use your judgment when selecting a site to pitch your tent. Below are some considerations to help you determine the best spot to rest for the night.
Find a Sheltered Campsite
Sometimes a spot that looks like a great place to camp, isn’t the best place. Depending on where you are, if there is a storm coming through and you are in an open field, the wind will batter your tent. Find a campsite surrounded by bushes. Bushes will act as a wind guard will provide a level of protection from any wind storms that are passing through.
Look For Flat Ground
In the wilderness, ground isn’t completely flat. There are roots and rocks that give the ground character. Remember, a flat-looking campsite can be deceptive. There may be a slope to your campsite, which means your blood could be rushing to your head all night. By taking a few minutes to examine your site, you can position your tent in such a way that roots are between camping pads and that your head is in a comfortable angle.
Locate a Spacious Campsite
By spacious, I mean a campsite that provides enough space for your tent. You don’t want to try to squeeze your tent onto small space only to have a sharp rock or branch puncture the wall or floor. Taking the extra time to examine the ground and arrange your tent accordingly will save you from the headache of a repair down the road. Position your tent to prevent trees, boulders, logs or bushes from blocking both doors. Going down to one door is fine, but ensure one door has no obstructions.
Does Water Run Through It?
Before putting your tent on the ground, look for any signs on the dirt where a stream of water may have flowed through. Now look beyond the campsite for hillsides or nearby streams that could overflow. When you are downhill, there is the possibility of water pooling where you set up your tent. The last thing you want is to wake up in the middle of the night to an inch of water in the bottom of your tent. And a final point, please don’t camp in a wash. A dry creek bed doesn’t necessarily mean it is an extinct creek. It may mean it is a path the water will take during a flash flood. Be safe.
Look For a Nearby Water Source
When possible, find a campsite that is easy walking distance to a water source. Having water nearby is helpful for cooking for meals and even filling your water bottles before leaving the next morning. If you aren’t able to camp near a convenient water source, at least note on your map where the last and first water sources are so you can plan accordingly.
Note Any Animal Activity Near Your Campsite
A campsite might not be the best option when there is a den a few trees over. Look for signs where bears may have recently been digging up a meal or for fresh scat. Game trails will tell you that animals are present, but that doesn’t always mean bears. You may be camping near deer, moose, or skunks. Be aware of what might be lurking nearby and be prepared for possible encounters. If the signs make you feel uncomfortable, don’t stay there.
Food Storage
Adding to animal activity, it is important to look for the best way to store your food in the backcountry. There are a few options for food storage, but ultimately, you want your food kept away from your campsite. The most ideal option is if your campsite has a storage locker or established bear hang. If you need to make your own bear hang, look for appropriately spaced trees. Ursaks and BearVault canisters can provide added flexibility for food storage in places where traditional bear hangs aren’t an option. Whatever you do, don’t store food in your tent when in bear country. Take the time to find the right spot for your tent and another for food storage and eating.
Other Campsite Considerations
There are a few other considerations for choosing a campsite in the backcountry. While the ground might be perfect, you will want to look at the trees around you. If they look like they could fall over in the windstorm or that there are branches ready to spear your tent, don’t position your tent under them. These are called “widow makers”. Find a spot away from a falling tree’s path, especially when you are expecting bad weather.
Cleanliness of the campsite can be a concern on high traffic trails. Unfortunately, not everyone will be considerate and some may leave garbage behind. When possible, pick up what you find and take it with you to keep it clean for others. If you feel that the site has the potential to attract rodents or predators, or the campground has been used as a public restroom (look for toilet paper), you may want to find another spot.
Finally, check out who else is already camping there. If you feel that they are going to be noisy neighbors who are a bit rowdy (more common at campsites with easier road access), you might want to keep hiking. Most neighbors aren’t a problem are are likeminded people who are wanting to enjoy nature and exchange stories. Every now and then, you might get a set of neighbors who want to party away their weekend. If that’s your scene, maybe they’ll offer you a little trail magic and you’ll have a great time sharing the spot together.
To Conclude
These are tips to help you determine an appropriate campsite in the backcountry. If you are in a safe and legal place to set up camp, that is great place to camp. If you can find a campsite that also has a great view, even better!
When choosing what to pack for your backpacking trip, think about how many days you are hiking, the weight you’re carrying, and the season. You will need to make adjustments to any list depending on your own personal needs. Follow this link to view our current gear list.
Bring the Right Shelter
On the trail, you are going to want to pack the best sleeping system for you. Consider how you sleep when choosing a sleeping bag or a quilt. Temperatures for the season will dictate the temperature rating of both your bag/quilt and pad. When packing a tent, think about the weight and how much room you need for you, your partner, and your gear.
Tent
Sleeping pad
Sleeping bag / quilt (rated for the temperatures you’re hiking in)
Pillow or stuff sac
Optional: Ground sheet
Optional: Extra tent pegs
Consider Food & Water
Depending on where you are hiking, bear safety for food storage is an important consideration. You will need to identify the best solution to pack your food when in bear country. Even when not in bear country, you need to pack out your garbage and keep mice out of your food. Also think about how you want to filter your water as more water sources will require purification. Make sure you pack enough calories and don’t forget about managing your electrolytes.
Food storage (e.g. Ursack or BearVault)
Water filter / purification
Water bottles (e.g. Smart water bottles)
Stove (e.g. Jetboil Stash)
Spork
Titanium mug
Freeze dried meals
Snacks (e.g. nuts, jerky)
Electrolytes
Ziploc bag for trash
Pack the Right Clothing
Packing clothing is probably the toughest part of packing for a trail. You have to consider the weather, which is not always predictable. Don’t underestimate the importance of dry socks. Reserving one pair to only wear around camp is a recommended luxury item. Please don’t carry your entire wardrobe. Re-wear clothing and stop in a town to do laundry and take a shower.
Hat / Toque / Beanie
Shorts / Pants
Short sleeve / long sleeve shirt
Fleece and/or Puffy
Thermal layer
Socks for hiking
Socks for camp
Hiking boots or shoes
Shoes for camp / Water crossing (e.g. Crocs)
Underwear
Gloves
Helpful Gear to Include in Your Packing List
We use trekking poles not only for stability but also for our tent. Some items on this list can be optional based on your preference. We often pack most of these items on our trips.
Pack the amount of toilet paper you think you will need and bring extra. A rash cream of some sort will be helpful with chaffing from your pack or in other sensitive places. Don’t forget to put any smelling products, such as toothpaste, in your bear safe storage at night.
Ziploc bags (Protect your clean toilet paper and another for used paper)
Make sure you pack with safety in mind. In bear country (particularly grizzly bears), you are going to want to pack bear spray. Sunscreen is something you might easily forget and will remember once you start to burn. Always travel with an SOS device and tell someone your travel plans.
Bear spray
First aid kit
Sunscreen
Bug spray
Map and compass or GPS
SOS device (e.g. Garmin inReach)
Entertainment Bundle
Don’t forget the importance of giving yourself something to do when you are stuck in your tent during a rainstorm. When the temperatures drop and you hide out in your tent, having a little something tucked in your pack to help pass the time is helpful. Choose something small and light to enhance your trip.
Journal with pencil
Deck of cards
Kindle
Camera
Final Reminder
It is easy to make a list and stuff everything into your backpack. It is another thing to carry the weight for several days over several miles. Be wise about what you truly need. Don’t be afraid to cut something from your gear if you need to. Make sure you have the right gear for the right weather on the right trail.
In 2021, my husband had expressed an interest in hiking a section of the Great Divide Trail (GDT). He had made arrangements with a friend to hike Section C, but his friend needed to back out. To keep himself from hiking alone, he used Facebook groups to find another hiker to join him on the trail. While he was trying to find a hiking partner, I had been quietly pondering the idea of joining him. Once I told him I was interested, we developed a plan to prepare me for the trip.
Starting Slow
Close to our home was a popular hiking trail. It was perfect for getting my legs ready. We started off with no weight and simply walked the loop of the trail. We counted steps with our smart watches and noted the time it took to complete it each time.
Rain didn’t deter us from hiking as we wouldn’t have that option when we were on the GDT. If it was pouring rain, we would stay home, but a little drizzle was not something to hold us back. Our dog thought our dedication to walking was marvelous and wanted to point out every squirrel he could find.
Adding a Little Weight
As my legs became used to hiking the loop, I started wearing a backpack with a small amount of weight. My body immediately noticed the difference. My pace was slower, but I was determined to get my pace back up to what it was pre-backpack. We increased the number of days per week that we hiked and over time we gradually added more weight. Soon I was carrying ~30lbs over 8-10kms.
Trying an Overnight Hike
After walking the loop multiple times per week in both directions, it was time to hike a different trail. We settled on the the Boreal Trail in Meadow Lake, Saskatchewan. While it was a relatively flat trail, it offered distance and pre-determined camping spots. We positioned vehicles at our entry and exit points and set out on our overnight trip.
As we hiked, I learned that I didn’t have any problems with climbing over fallen trees. What I did have issues with was the pack not sitting right on my shoulders over long periods. We would need to adjust my pack. I also learned what gear I didn’t want to bring with me when we hiked the GDT. This was also my first time drinking filtered water that had some unwanted guests in our filter. We found water sources containing fresh water shrimp and leeches. Yummy!
What are the Benefits of a Preparation Hike?
Physical Readiness – By doing an early hike, I was able to get my body somewhat ready for what was coming. I say “somewhat” because I couldn’t replicate the mountain terrain. Doing a hike with weight over distance provided an introduction.
Confidence – After we finished our hike in the Boreal Trail, I felt I was capable of hiking the GDT. I knew I wouldn’t be the fastest hiker, but I could carry my own gear. It gave me an understanding of my pace.
Gear Check – A preparation hike helped me determine what gear I wanted to remove from my pack. I also noted what was missing. There was gear I hadn’t used before and learned to trust it, such as gaiters and bear spray.
Adjust to Nature – Sleeping outdoors is different. It can be difficult to sleep when you hear birds, frogs, or other animal noises. It is also challenging at dusk or at night wondering if a bear is watching you nearby as you go to an outhouse or other private corner. A preparation hike provided the opportunity to settle my nerves and not feel I was going to get eaten if I stepped away from my campsite for a few minutes.
Communication – A preparation hike when on trail with someone else is helpful to learn each other’s hiking styles and needs. My husband is an independent hiker. He likes having others hike with him for safety in numbers, but he doesn’t feel the need to stick close. I have a certain distance that I like to keep between us (although I have found that distance has been increasing). Having an initial hike before going on Section C gave us a chance to set expectations before venturing out.
Time to Hike
Completing a preparation hike will give you the confidence you need before going out on the trail. It gives you the chance to identify areas that need a little correcting or what is going to work best for you. While not everyone is going to need a preparation hike, who is going to complain about finding another excuse to hike?
Notice I didn’t say, “thru-hike”? That is because I haven’t spent months on a trail and so I can’t speak to being away from home for a duration longer than two weeks. What I do have is experience with trying to keep up with a faster partner, mom-guilt, and pushing through day after day of hiking tough terrain. Here are a few of my recommendations for a successful multi-day hike.
Set Goals
Trails aren’t easy. Unless you picked a trail with flat terrain and nice gravel paths, you are in for elevation ascents and descents, uneven ground, and a variety of other changing conditions from mud to bugs. There are times when you will feel miserable with the rain pouring down on you while the clouds block the views that you were hoping to see after a long climb. You might also find that despite your best efforts to prepare for the hike, your legs aren’t cooperating and discover climbing switchbacks to be especially difficult. Setting goals will be a huge help in winning the mental game of a hike.
Creating goals allows you to break your hike into bite-sized pieces rather than feel intimidating by what is yet to come. Goals can look different depending on what motivates you, such as:
Target a visible point on the trail, such as a tree twenty feet above on the switchback or the top of a particularly muddy climb.
Take a Zero Day. There is no rule that you can’t leave trail and head into town for a shower, an overnight in a hotel or a nice hot meal. Setting the goal of a Zero Day might be the motivation you need when facing a particularly challenging day.
Reward yourself for reaching a milestone. Rewards can be as simple as a long rest or a drink of water to a snack you have been saving or a drink you tucked away in your pack. Celebrate 50km, 100km, or reaching the top of your first pass. Whatever it is, celebrate your wins.
Set a long-term goal of a particular campsite you want to reach. For me, I was determined to get to Floe Lake on the GDT. I had seen pictures before the start of our hike and was going to push through to make sure I got there.
Know Your Why
There will be stretches of the trail where you love every moment of being out there and times where you wonder what you got yourself into. When the bugs are trying to bite, your legs are scratched up and your feet hurt, you can find yourself spiraling into continuous thoughts of misery. This negativity can take distract you from the beauty that surrounds you and taints the experience.
Recalling why you decided to hike the trail will help refocus your thoughts away from the immediate misery to the payoff that lies ahead. For some, the why will be the accomplish of completing a trail end to end. Others might want to hike a trail to reach a particular view. Fitness might be a why. There are also hikers who are there for the personal journey. Whatever your reason is for hiking, there will be days when you will reflect back on your why. It doesn’t need to be an earth-shattering reason, but the reason will be important to you. The reason is what you will judge your days against. Are you getting out of this hike what you’re putting into it? Is it worth the suffering, sacrifice or cost?
During the last leg of our GDT hike, I found myself mentally drained. We were pulling long days on the trail and I felt I had spent most of those days staring at the ground rather than at the views. The trail had become rather technical with overgrown bushes snagging my already fatigued ankles. Whenever I caught up with my husband, he would take off and I wouldn’t get a chance to stop and take in the view as I felt I was going to be left behind. I was struggling to finish the hike because I wasn’t satisfying the why, which is to enjoy the views. Once I expressed to my husband that he needed to give me time to stop to enjoy the views, I found a renewed energy every time we took a break. Knowing your why is no joke.
Reflect on How Far You’ve Come
Take a moment to look over your shoulder to see how far you’ve climbed or the distance you’ve covered. There will be days when the climb seems to go on forever. While some of the climb will be more vertical with switchbacks zig-zagging up the mountain side, other climbs will also take you across more horizontal miles. Depending on where you are, you might see a distant highway, a river you crossed in the morning, or the valley where you camped the night before. You might not be able to see the bottom of the mountain where the climb started or the lake you swore was down there somewhere but is obscured through the trees or blocked by a ridge.
Every time you put one foot in front of the other, you are that much closer to completing your trail or celebrating your next milestone. Looking back provides a moment for you to reflect on what you have accomplished. On our GDT hike, I can recall a few times when I looked back and marveled at how far I had come.
One particularly memorable moment was standing at the top of Wonder Pass surrounded by snow and I turned back to see the ridgeline of mountains behind us. Although I was chilly, I took some time to ponder how I was standing there in the snowy mountains. I never imagined myself hiking in a place like that, and there I was. It felt surreal. We had come so far and we couldn’t see where we had started from. There was still so much trail to go, but I felt like I had conquered the GDT.
Hike Your Own Hike
On the trail, I tell my husband he hikes like a gazelle or a mountain goat. While he happily hikes up a mountainside, I work for every inch. He doesn’t look like he feels any drain from the climb while I need to stop and guzzle water. Our bodies are very different and it can make for some interesting challenges when I want to rest on flat ground when he is getting twitchy, anxious to get moving again.
Hiking your own hike, to me, means hiking without judgment. Don’t try to compare your need for breaks against your partners. Communicate what you need and set expectations for frequency of stops and distances that can be covered in one day. Depending on your comfort level, you might have your faster partner hike ahead of you with the intention of to meet up where there is a junction or at a creek crossing. Your partner could scout out flat ground during difficult climbs so you know how much further you need to go before your next break.
You don’t need to be jealous of your hiking partner’s abilities or criticize how you perceive your fitness level. Remember that you have 30lbs or so of weight on your back and are doing something that millions of people wouldn’t dare try. You are already doing something amazing and while it’s hard, you’re putting one foot in front of the other and will reach your campsite or the trailhead if you keep going.
Include Your Loved Ones
Being in the middle of the mountains or forest means you have limited to no access to internet or cell phone service. This can be challenging if you have children or pets at home. Even though you have made arrangements to have them cared for while you are on trail, you will find your thoughts being pulled toward wondering if they miss you or if they are okay. These thoughts distract you from the views you have worked so hard to reach.
Remember that your time on the trail is limited. While you aren’t away on a work trip, you are doing something that mentally recharges you. Your children, and your pets, will enjoy hearing about your adventure and see the pictures you took along the way. Your dog will be especially interested in hearing about all the squirrels you saw.
Identify plants, rocks, formations, or any other sights long the trail that a loved one back home would appreciate and take a photo of it. Finding ways to include them helps to eliminate any guilt you feel about leaving them behind and makes it feel like they are with you. Thinking about what they might like will also get you thinking about different perspectives and you will spot things on the trail that you might otherwise have missed. You don’t need to bring them a souvenir when you come home. Just tell them what you saw that reminded you of them.
Write It Down
My final recommendation is to journal and write about the highlights of your day. Write about there being toilet paper in outhouses, animals you spotted, the ups and downs from the day… whatever it is, document it. You can read your entries while on trail or when you leave trail, but writing helps you sort through your thoughts from the day and identify changes you need to make to improve the next day.
Journaling also gives you something to review before your next hike. You can see what worked for you and what factors were negatively impacting your experience. When preparing for your next hike, you can implement changes or equip yourself differently so you have all the tools in place to have a successful hike. Adding a pen and a thin notebook to your pack isn’t a big addition to the weight you’ll carry. It will not only give you that opportunity to mentally check-in, but it will also give you another way to capture your trip and recall those great memories you make along the way.
In August 2023, we decided to hike both the Northern and Long Range Traverse in Newfoundland. The Northern Traverse is estimated at 27 km long and the Long Range Traverse is said to be 35 km. To those who enjoy multi-day hikes, this doesn’t sound like a lot of km to cover, but this route does not have a trail and goes through some difficult terrain which makes you earn each one of those km.
Before going on this hike, you need to get a permit from the visitor’s centre and to be granted a permit, you must attend their mandatory orientation. Here they will go over how this is not a trail, you are not going for a nice little stroll, and you are choosing suffering. They tell you to be prepared to have wet feet, be eaten by black flies, and generally have a miserable time. They also tell you that it is some of the most beautiful scenery you will see, and they are right about that. Most of what they emphasize is the tuckamore, especially the section they call “Tuckamore Tangle” if doing the Northern Traverse, and what it will do to your gear and your navigation.
I almost backed out of doing both traverses in one go after a pre-orientation conversation with Parks staff as we had a timeframe to complete the trail and I worried that we might be better off doing one or the other. After digesting what was said and seeing the actual orientation, I changed my mind and we were back to doing both. We were experienced and were prepared for what was going to be thrown at us. We got a ride to the trailhead from a couple who were going to do the Long Range Traverse the following day and got ready to step off.
Day One – Northern Trailhead to Snug Harbor This was the easiest portion of the hike as we walked down a nice gravel path which leads to the tour boats. There is a little junction for those going on the Northern Traverse that leads into the forest and eventually to a river crossing where we waded in knee-high water to the other side. We were warned that this water crossing can get waist high in some weather conditions. This stretch was generally uneventful as we pushed through overgrown paths, climbed down onto the sandy and rocky beach and back into the forest again. Eventually we made it to Snug Harbor which had about four or five tenting spots, two large chairs on the beach, a bear box, picnic table, and a green throne. It was the best maintained site on the trail with a beautiful view. At night, the toads were very loud and woke me up, but experiencing nature is what we were out there for.
Day Two – Snug Harbor to the Crest We started out this day with a beach walk to where the “trail” begins in the trees. We ran into a couple who were exiting the Northern Traverse and showed us their scratched, bitten, and bruised legs. Almost immediately we were climbing and we attempted to follow the ribbons tied to the trees. We’d check the GPS and find we were off track and readjusted only to see another ribbon to our left or right that was only visible from above. We found clothing items that had been snagged on branches and chuckled, making a mental note to keep a close eye on anything drying on our packs. Eventually we made it out to an open area on the hillside with a view of the ocean in the distance. The clouds were moving in (and the fog) and we knew we needed to find our stopping point for the night before the forecasted storm hit. The wind was kicking up as we settled on a patch of moss in the tuckamore. It wasn’t perfectly flat and I had a mound of dirt to sleep against all night, but it was sheltered. The wind and rain battered our tent and both of us went out into the field across from our site to gather stones to pile onto the stakes as they had a difficult time staying stuck in the moss. It was a long night as our tent took a beating until the storm passed in the early morning hours.
Day Three – Crest to Triangle Lake This was the day where we were introduced to tuckamore. We spent a bit of time trying to locate the trail. It was hidden under the low brush and while we thought we could make out where there was a break in the tuckamore, or where the trail might be, we couldn’t spot how hikers chose to get there. We had to backtrack a couple of times as we ended up on game trails and then got deeper into the tuckamore. Everything was boggy. Grass was boggy, mud and water pooled around the base of the tuckamore, forcing us to swing from the branches from one root to another, hoping to land of firm ground on the other side. I tested a patch of grass with my trekking pole only to find the ground give way when I stood on it, sinking to my knee. I placed my other foot on another patch to pull myself out, only for that foot to sink in too. My boots were now suctioned in knee-deep mud and my husband had to help pull me out as I couldn’t get any leverage.
Of course, the Northern Traverse wanted to also introduce us to its boulder fields where I learned that my balance on rocks needs improvement and it took a lot of patience to pick away at the obstacle. We reached Triangle Lake which had a couple of wooden tent pads and a few other flat patches that were suitable for tents. We had a nice rest in the sun and set up camp for the night.
Day Four – Triangle Lake to Gilley Pond Today we learned that tuckamore likes to grow in hillsides, which means climbing up and down while it snags on your packs, and for fun, the ground likes to erode under the branches and roots, so you could be scrambling over a drop of several feet all while hoping that the root you’re standing on will hold.
Where there was no tuckamore, there was a lot of uphill which was at such an angle that it was easier for me to claw my way up than try to stand upright. Oliver didn’t have this problem and just walked up, but I felt closer to the ground and decided it was a much better idea to take a few moments to sit on the moss and celebrate how far I’d come. It was during one of these moments that I looked up at a distant hillside and saw a moose running along the ridgeline. It was the only moose we would see on this trip. To finish off the day, the Northern Traverse decided to treat us with a long descent down into Gilley Pond. It might not have been that challenging of a descent, but given how muddy the hill was, it was a slow climb down. Even though we could see the camp, it took forever to get there. The view that night of the stars and the silhouettes of the hillsides was stunning. You could also hear the coyotes in the distance.
Day Five – Gilley Pond to Mark’s Pond For those choosing to do both the North and Long Range Traverse, this is decision time with regards to if you want to complete both traverses. After this day, you reach the top of the Fjord where you can climb down the waterfall and wait for space on the tour boat to get a ride back to the parking lot and quit the trail, or keep going. After talking about how we were feeling (tired, wet, and literally bruised by the tuckamore), we chose to keep going.
Being that is was the Northern Traverse, we had rain in the morning as we climbed out of Gilley Pond, making it a soggy and muddy climb out, then we found ourselves searching the tuckamore-covered hillside for signs of ribbons to guide our way through, and climb even more combinations of uneven ground and tuckamore before we finally reached the rock and moss hill that lead down to the viewpoint at the top of the waterfall. It was the payoff. We stopped here for lunch, had a good rest and celebrated reaching this beautiful location. We had chosen the hard way to get there, but it was beautiful. As we went to take a picture together, we realized that the legs of the mini tripod I had attached to the shoulder straps of my pack and been ripped off in the tuckamore, so our angles became limited.
Energized from reaching the top, we climbed up the rocky waterfall and continued along the top of the ridge, following the rolling hills to finally get to Mark’s Pond where we snagged a dry site along the lakeshore. You really need to get used to mud on this trail because there was a lot at this campground and at Little Island Pond before it. Also, look out for hidden little washouts on the paths. When lighting was poor in the evening, I stepped in a hole on my way to the green throne and made a splash as I landed in a puddle near the tent. I had one of my best sleeps at this site. It was lovely.
Day Six – Mark’s Pond to Lower Green Island Pond A creek crossing is the first thing to greet you as you leave Mark’s Pond. Most of this day didn’t feel all that bad, except for Oliver’s determination to keep his feet dry. The “trail” would run along the bottom of the hills and cut right through the muddy bog. Oliver would take wide swings around the bogs and climb up and down the hills. I would follow behind him, but found the effort was wearing me down. It added extra km and it was just more up and down for me to manage. The tall grass was also damp and as I followed him, I slipped. As I fell, my trekking pole sunk into the ground and I managed to grab hold of it and prevent myself from sliding all the way down the hill into the waiting bog. But the Northern Traverse had another slip in store for me.
I gave up following Oliver up onto the hills and decided to remain down in the bog and mud. My shoes and socks were already wet and I embraced the situation. The sound of squishing moss became the soundtrack for the trail as I stomped. And then I took another tumble. This time I was walking through mud and stepped on a rock. This should have been something solid for me to stand on, instead my mud-covered boots slipped on its surface as my trekking pole didn’t quite catch the solid patch of grass on my right side. As my pole sunk into the deepest portion of the mud, so did my right foot… and down I went. Oliver asked if I was alright and I lifted my now bent trekking pole out of the mud. RIP trekking pole.
At the end of the day, we reached a descent to our camp but quickly realized we were off the GPS route as we were at a cliff. It was a cliff we had been warned at the Visitor’s Centre to avoid and there we were, standing at the edge of it trying to figure out the best course of action. Neither of us felt like trying to jump or slide down nine feet onto a narrow dirt landing and instead chose to hang on to a piece of cord and a tree branch while inching our way across a slick rockface to another, much shorter drop. By the end of this, I was done for the day and we found a patch of grass near the occupied tent pads to set up for the night.
Day Seven – Lower Green Island Pond to Gros Morne Trailhead The final day on trail. This felt like a long day as we started with another creek crossing and then had several climbs to do and almost all of them were muddy. You have to understand that the steps that you climb up are goopy footprints from previous hikers and the mud wraps around your shoes with each step. Something about stepping on the mud didn’t make me feel confident as I didn’t have the grip I wanted. One really has to embrace getting wet and muddy on this trail and just lean in and grab hold of anything to get yourself up a muddy hillside. Let’s just say, I chose to slide down a few times.
We reached Bakeapple viewpoint which, I would say, is the second best view on the trail, but there are so many wonderful views along the way. It was another great place to stop and eat before we continued down Ferry Gulch (again, muddy and slippery) and then finally connected with the very long trail for day hikers doing Gros Morne mountain. Just when we thought we would be on a nice hiking trail, we encountered scree and plenty of uneven rock. There was even a little tuckamore thrown in, which we laughed at and called “baby tuckamore”.
The walk back to the car seemed to go on forever. By this point, we were ready to be at the parking lot as we were now in the trees on a wide open path with nothing to see, wondering “how much further”. As we met people along the way, they wanted to hear about our adventure, astonished that we had hiked all that way with the mud and tuckamore. When we reached the parking lot, we were relieved to see our car to make our way to Rocky Harbour where we would get a hotel and drop off our permit at the Visitor’s Centre so they knew we made it out.
At the hotel we got our town bags out of the car, had nice long showers, and treated ourselves to a huge meal at the restaurant, even if our now stiffening legs just wanted us to go to bed. After we were well fed, we finally gave in and climbed into the nice warm bed we had worked so hard to earn and had a great rest before our drive home the following day.
I was woken up by my husband playing “Rise Up” from the Hamilton soundtrack. After taking forever to fall asleep with sore legs, I needed to sleep in. While we got a later start at 8:30am, it wasn’t a sleeping in morning. We still needed to hike out.
It was a slow morning as I wanted to rest my head on the picnic table, but I slowly woke up and we packed up the tent. My ankles took a bit of time to loosen up on the trail as everything was tight from the day before.
The hike started out on a quad trail that was mostly clear, except for the odd spider web. There were some taller weeds growing on the trail and a few branches hanging over, but nothing like the other trails we were on,
It was hotter this day and I needed to drink a ton of water just on the flat sections. There ended up being more climbing on the way out than either of us expected. It wasn’t terrible, but I was tired from not sleeping and my muscles were done. Had this been the first day on the trail, it would have been a breeze.
At one point, we heard some rustling in the trees and a martin ran onto the trail toward Oliver, then quickly changed course and ran across the path, out of sight. I spotted a second martin running toward the path before it changed directions and went up into the forest. That was our excitement on this walk.
We were treated to views of the mountains, although not as majestic and they turned into hills the more we descended into the river valley. It was mostly rivers and logs that had been cut away to clear the path.
There was one viewpoint where the land had eroded away leaving hoodoo-like formations below. Someone had arranged stones on the ground to form numbers, although neither of us took a picture of the numbers or recall what was written.
We could finally hear traffic from the highway as we neared the end of the trail. The hoods of vehicles reflected in the sunlight and I hugged our car when I reached the parking lot. My feet were happy when I finally took off my runners, but were unhappy when I put my shoes back on to enter Truffle Pigs restaurant to eat lunch.
We ate all the food we could and then drove to Canmore where we stayed at Canmore Inn and Suites to rest up and clean up before traveling home the next day. For my first section hike, it was difficult, but rewarding. Most importantly, it didn’t scare me off from future hikes and only made me want to do more.
In the morning, we discovered that our lighter wasn’t working to start our Jetboil as it got wet the day before. That meant no hot tea or coffee to start our day on a cold morning. We packed up and were on the trail by 8am with a long ~24.5km day ahead of us. We grabbed water just above the dry creek bed outside of the campground and followed the trail toward Wolverine Pass.
It was a switchback climb with us on alert for mama grizzly and her cubs. Oliver admitted that he did want to see bears on the trip, but at a distance so he knew where they were. He didn’t like knowing they were sighted the day before and not know if they were still nearby.
The area around Wolverine Pass was open meadows with another short climb in the direction of where we were to camp the day before. We had made the right choice to stay at Tumbling Creek because I would have been too exhausted to have made that final climb.
We enjoyed the spectacular views of the Rockwall with the cliffs towering over our left side along the path. There were blue glaciers clinging to the base and a cool breeze was blowing but we weren’t chilly as long as we were moving. We still kept our eyes open for bears and saw nothing.
There were some interesting paths where the trail looked like it had been washed away and we needed to dip into a dry creek bed and back out again. Helmet Falls was beautiful and we had to push through more branches to reach the campground where we ate a late lunch. We were starting to feel that we were falling behind but only because we had an arrival time in mind. I tried to just focus on “getting there”.
We grabbed water at the campground and began to climb up to Goodsir Pass. As we climbed, I was definitely running out of steam. It was getting increasingly difficult to remain positive on push up the hill. I was determined to keep picking away, even with sore feet, ankles, knees, and shoulders.
We encountered our first horseflies on Goodsir Pass and batted them away. There was one for each of us. Luckily, that was all. There wasn’t much to this pass compared to the others. We did find a lovely spot, with views to have a snack before beginning the climb down.
The descent was where I struggled. My body was tired and sore and we counted 30+ fallen trees we had to climb over before we stopped counting. There were also alder bushes we had to push through. My fatigued ankles struggled to keep me balanced on the uneven trail and they bent in many uncomfortable positions. The view of Mt. Goodsir was at least a good payoff for all the hard work.
We reached McArthur Creek Campground at around 8:30pm and searched the blowdown covered campground for the cooking area to eat and hang our food. It was a late dinner and a late tent set up (by headlamp light), but we were happy to get to bed on our last night on trail. The long day resulted in the worst leg spasms I had experienced on the trail, so it was also a long night.
Oliver woke up to the sound of an animal sniffing around our tent. The women camping nearby also reported the same thing, so we assumed it was a porcupine which had been reported to be in the area and frequent visitors to the campground. I also woke up to my pack falling over in the vestibule, which I had to prop back up as it had been hailing with freezing rain throughout the night.
We were up around 7am for breakfast and chatted with a few folks. Taking pictures of the sunrise on the mountains was a challenge as there were a group of young women skinny dipping in the lake nearby.
With our packs ready to go, we set out for Wolverine Campground. The path went up almost immediately and I was in shock as I understood we had a nice easy exit from the campground to warm up, but we were straight into the climb up Numa Pass. It was tough to get up the switchbacks, but felt easy compared to the climb ahead with Tumbling Pass.
On the descent down Numa, my knee was getting sore again, so I strapped on the knee brace, which I found helpful. It was also helpful, mentally, for me to understand that we were on the Numa Pass ascent itself and not an extra climb before the pass, which Oliver had mistakenly told me when he looked at the map. I was worried as I was quickly running out of gas on the climb and thought I still had to do Numa Pass and Tumbling Creek. It didn’t feel doable. Once the correction was made, I felt better. There was only one more climb to do, which felt manageable.
The long descent took us to Numa Creek Campground. There was a pile of scat on the way to the campground and no more. There was a young woman staying at the campground and she was using it as a base camp for other day hikes. We stopped for lunch and the trail running family from Floe Lake arrived after us. They were going as far as Tumbling Creek where they were ending their weekend trip.
We continued on and began the climb to Tumbling Pass. The climb was terrible. That’s an understatement. There was lots of incline through overgrown alder trees. One SOBO hiker we met along the way lost his bear spray in the tangle on his way to Numa Creek. It wasn’t surprising as the branches snagged our packs.
The final climb was steep and we walked sideways up the hill. Once we reached the top, we had a beautiful view of the famous Rockwall. The teenagers from the trail running family caught up to us at the pass and we walked with their mom for the descent into Tumbling Creek where I decided I was not prepared for a third climb to Wolverine Pass. We were also warned of a mother bear with two cubs on the trail out of Tumbling Creek to Wolverine Pass and we didn’t want to encounter them. Giving them time to move on felt like the best move. That meant added 3km to the next day, but was smart. We set up camp at Tumbling Creek and quickly fell asleep.
