Hey readers! If you haven’t been watching our Youtube videos, you may not know that we did go to Arizona, and while we did start out at our intended start point, like all good plans, they did not survive contact with the enemy. The full story of our adventure on the AZT will be coming soon to this space, don’t worry, if you really really don’t want to go watch our Youtube videos.
This piece is coming from a look to the future. I (Oliver) am very future-motivated. I like to look ahead, plan, and dream about adventures to come. However, we have limitations right now, in this stage of our lives.
Current Limitations
Waiting for our kids to graduate. We have one finishing Grade 10 and two finishing Grade 9 right now, so we can’t just take off on a long thru-hike until they have graduated and are looking at their first steps into adulthood.
Our day jobs. Currently Cheryl gets 4 weeks of holiday per year and I get five. It won’t be until 2028 that Cheryl gets her fifth week. We can take unpaid leave if we want, but more paid leave would be best. There is a possibility of circumstances arising for us to do something longer sooner, if either of us gets sent out of country for work, as we get compensating leave before and after. But that isn’t predictable.
So with these limitations, and not wanting to spend more than 3 weeks in a go in this chapter of our lives, we have to dream of shorter trails: two week thru hikes, ones that we know we can’t get trail legs before finishing. That said, Here are some dream destinations we might get to do sooner:
Dream Two(ish) Week Thru Hikes
Resting up at the crest of Tornado Saddle, GDT Section B
North Coast Trail. 59km or so along the north coast of Vancouver Island. Very similar to the West Coast Trail, but free and much less crowded.
The O Circuit of Torres del Paine in Patagonia. We watched a video and were both dazzled by the 136km trail, and South America has been on my personal bucket list for a while.
Tour du Mont Blanc. A great excuse to go to Europe, circumnavigating the tallest peak in France. Clocking in at 170km, it looks glorious.
We both want to go back to the Great Divide Trail, after having done Section C in 2021. The most flexible section would be Section B, (195km) because it requires no reservations. I hiked half of it – from Coleman to Cache Creek before having to get my hiking partner out to catch a flight. I’d love to finish it, and share it with Cheryl.
So two of these two week thru hikes are “local” (in Canada) and two are international. That should take us through to 2028, when our calendars open up to longer opportunities. Honestly, we loved our time on the AZT and both want to come back and do the whole thing. We also both have an itch to do a big through hike. We have joked about one year she can do the Appalachian Trail while I do the Pacific Crest Trail… I don’t think any vlogging couples have ever simultaneously hiked two different trails and tried to edit their videos together!
When you are planning for a multi-day backcountry hiking trip, you need to make a few considerations before stepping onto the trail. You might want to jump straight to what gear you want to bring, but that there are other steps you should think through.
1. Choose Trails For Your Experience Level
Not everyone can make the PCT their first ever backcountry hike and successfully complete it. It takes time to find the right gear, get comfortable in the backcountry, know what you’re doing out there, and build your strength. Confidence is key in the backcountry. Get a few weekend hikes under your belt before you set out on a multi-day trip where you will have limited access to civilization. It is great to challenge yourself, but start slow and give yourself enough time to build up your “trail legs”. Pushing too hard, too fast can lead to injury. The goal is to have the best experience on trail and complete the distance you set for yourself.
2. Consider the Season and Elevation Where You’ll Be Hiking
In the winter months, you may find it hard to be stuck at home and not be hiking the trail. You might think about getting outdoors to get some camping days in. Be mindful of where the trail is and if it passes through mountainous areas. There are many trails, such as the PCT, that start out in the desert but increase in elevation as you go along. Because of the location and elevation of some long distance trails, you cannot start them in colder seasons. Do your trail research during your planning phase and choose trails that are safe for the time of year you are traveling.
3. Schedule Enough Time
Set realistic goals for yourself with the time you have available. When planning a multi-day backcountry trip, you need to not only factor in your days on trail, but any days you need to get to the trail and get home. Unless you have quit your job to hike or are retired, you have a finite number of vacation days to work around. Travel days can cut into your trail days. You may need to rethink which trail you choose, or how far you hike, based on your timeline. This may also impact how many zero or nero days you take on trail and how many miles you need to hike per day.
4. Set Your Budget
When planning for your hike, take a good look at your budget. A budget can be blown before you even set foot on the trail. Gear upgrades can be costly and when you’re dreaming of getting back on trail, you could be tempted to buy new gear. Calculate your meals and planned zero days. Factor in unexpected hotel stays due to weather or injury and other incidentals such as laundry. Don’t forget that there are still bills to pay when you’re away so the more you can save before your travel, the better. Backcountry camping doesn’t mean no costs. You still have shuttles and permits to consider and each expense adds up.
5. Review Your Equipment
Depending on where you choose to hike, you will want to check if you have the correct gear. If you are hiking where bear canisters are required for food storage, you will need to purchase a BearVault. If you are hiking in the winter, you will need to look at the rating of your sleep system and might need micro spikes or an ice axe. Since you are planning to hike over several days, weigh your pack and understand how much you are looking at carrying. A heavy pack might not be a big deal for a short hike. Carrying it for over a week, you may regret some decisions. If making new gear purchases, look for sales, find second hand gear, and confirm what you really need to bring with you. You don’t want to purchase something only to discover you are packing the extra weight for nothing.
6. Determine the Distance
By knowing where you are going, how fast you hike, the time you have on trail, and your budget, you can now understand how far you can go on trail. Now you need to take a good look at the map. Examine the elevation gains to estimate how difficult those miles will be. Note where campsites are located and if stealth camping is permitted. Also look for exit points in case you are falling behind or need to exit to get to a resupply.
A good look at the map also helps you to figure out where you might need to catch a ride either by hitchhiking or by getting a shuttle. Consult with online hiking groups for the trail such as on Facebook or through Apps. They will identify water sources and other trail information which will help you make additional estimates about where you might want to stop on the trail each night.
7. What Permits or Reservations are Required?
Some trails will require you to book permits to access the trail or make reservations for campsites. When planning for your hike, you need to factor in enough time to make the reservations you need for your hike. The Great Divide Trail requires reservations for backcountry sites in several sections. It is often challenging to get a couple of vital campsites which requires additional research for alternate routes and mile adjustment. Other trails require permits with specific start dates. This will change when you can get on the trail which could impact your vacation schedule with your employer.
8. Are You Hiking Solo or With Others?
While it is easier to only plan for yourself, sometimes it is more fun to hike with a friend. In this case, you need to bring your hiking partner into the planning process. Consider the experience of your hiking partner. Do they hike faster or slower than you? How much time do they have to hike? When looking at gear, will you share a tent or will you each bring your own? With two tents, you will need two reservations if they are required and you need to find a place to camp with enough space for both tents. Take into consideration what sights they want to see. You may end up taking a short side trip to a waterfall or a viewpoint to satisfy your partner’s curiosity.
9. Identify Your Logistical Requirements
While this was briefly mentioned before, you need to take a look at how you are getting on and off the trail. Many of the larger trail systems have Trail Angels. These are incredible volunteers who offer anything from shuttle services to accommodations and water stashes. You can find them on Trail Association websites or on Facebook. When you have your schedule figured out, you can begin to hunt around for Trail Angels to see if one is available. If not, you can use shuttles or taxis to get to the trail. Identify locations where you can either purchase a resupply of food or mail a box from home. Knowing the distance between resupply points will help you to determine how many days of food you will need to carry.
10. Prepare Physically and Mentally
During the months and weeks before your hike, get ready. Don’t wait until your feet hit the trail to get exercise. Being on trail for multiple days in a row is exhausting both physically and mentally. The wind battering your tent at night will leave you with little sleep. Tiredness can lead to injuries and poor decisions. There will be challenges on the trail, so give yourself a head start by going to the gym, walks… move. Do something to get your body ready for the stress you will be putting it under so it is one less thing for you to adjust to on the trail.
Final Thoughts
Planning for a backcountry trip should be a fun process. It is during this time that you can set goals, dream big, and get excited about the journey ahead. Yes, there are important considerations to make sure your trip goes smoothly, but ultimately, make sure you leave room for flexibility on trail. You never know what unexpected and exciting opportunities might arise.
We will be hiking sections of the Arizona Trail this year and are excited to share our videos with you. We’ve been busy going through our gear to make sure we have everything we need and purchasing anything that needs replacing. We’re looking forward to hiking someplace warm and hopefully dry.
When choosing a campsite in the backcountry, there are a few considerations to make. It isn’t always possible to set up camp wherever you feel like it. You also might make the mistake of setting up your tent in a spot that you will regret later. Below are some tips to help you make the best decisions when choosing a campsite.
Is Camping Permitted in the Area?
Sometimes you won’t find any campsites in the backcountry. This could simply be due to agencies deeming the area as sensitive or an animal corridor. When planning your hike, identify where camping is not permitted. This could add some complexity when you are determining the distance you must hike in a day. Do not set up a campsite in these areas unless it is an absolute emergency. Basically only set up your tent, if you are waiting to be rescued. Try your absolute best to exit these areas before you set up your campsite. Your feet and back might be tired from walking the extra miles to exit the restricted area, but respect the rules.
Do You Require a Permit or Reservation?
Depending on where you are hiking, you may need to pre-book your campsite. This can be challenging when you aren’t sure how far you will hike in a day and commits you to certain dates. If you are going faster or slower on your hike, you may find this frustrating.
Pay attention to when you you need to make reservations and note any alternates you may to take if the system says a campsite is full. Do your best to figure out your route, make the appropriate reservations, and carry your permits. You don’t want to be the reason that hikers get a bad reputation in the backcountry. Follow the rules.
Distance From Campsite to Campsite
Before your hike, review your map for pre-established sites. Also look at apps with hiker comments indicating spots not marked on an official map. With this information, you can consider your own hiking fitness to calculate how far you will be able to hike in a day. Look at your map and review the camping regulations for the area you are in to determine where you will stop for the night. You can either make a reservation if required, or you can find an unofficial campsite while on trail if permitted. The choice is up to you.
Choosing an Unofficial Backcountry Campsite
When you are in the backcountry and there are no marked campsites, you will need to use your judgment when selecting a site to pitch your tent. Below are some considerations to help you determine the best spot to rest for the night.
Find a Sheltered Campsite
Sometimes a spot that looks like a great place to camp, isn’t the best place. Depending on where you are, if there is a storm coming through and you are in an open field, the wind will batter your tent. Find a campsite surrounded by bushes. Bushes will act as a wind guard will provide a level of protection from any wind storms that are passing through.
Look For Flat Ground
In the wilderness, ground isn’t completely flat. There are roots and rocks that give the ground character. Remember, a flat-looking campsite can be deceptive. There may be a slope to your campsite, which means your blood could be rushing to your head all night. By taking a few minutes to examine your site, you can position your tent in such a way that roots are between camping pads and that your head is in a comfortable angle.
Locate a Spacious Campsite
By spacious, I mean a campsite that provides enough space for your tent. You don’t want to try to squeeze your tent onto small space only to have a sharp rock or branch puncture the wall or floor. Taking the extra time to examine the ground and arrange your tent accordingly will save you from the headache of a repair down the road. Position your tent to prevent trees, boulders, logs or bushes from blocking both doors. Going down to one door is fine, but ensure one door has no obstructions.
Does Water Run Through It?
Before putting your tent on the ground, look for any signs on the dirt where a stream of water may have flowed through. Now look beyond the campsite for hillsides or nearby streams that could overflow. When you are downhill, there is the possibility of water pooling where you set up your tent. The last thing you want is to wake up in the middle of the night to an inch of water in the bottom of your tent. And a final point, please don’t camp in a wash. A dry creek bed doesn’t necessarily mean it is an extinct creek. It may mean it is a path the water will take during a flash flood. Be safe.
Look For a Nearby Water Source
When possible, find a campsite that is easy walking distance to a water source. Having water nearby is helpful for cooking for meals and even filling your water bottles before leaving the next morning. If you aren’t able to camp near a convenient water source, at least note on your map where the last and first water sources are so you can plan accordingly.
Note Any Animal Activity Near Your Campsite
A campsite might not be the best option when there is a den a few trees over. Look for signs where bears may have recently been digging up a meal or for fresh scat. Game trails will tell you that animals are present, but that doesn’t always mean bears. You may be camping near deer, moose, or skunks. Be aware of what might be lurking nearby and be prepared for possible encounters. If the signs make you feel uncomfortable, don’t stay there.
Food Storage
Adding to animal activity, it is important to look for the best way to store your food in the backcountry. There are a few options for food storage, but ultimately, you want your food kept away from your campsite. The most ideal option is if your campsite has a storage locker or established bear hang. If you need to make your own bear hang, look for appropriately spaced trees. Ursaks and BearVault canisters can provide added flexibility for food storage in places where traditional bear hangs aren’t an option. Whatever you do, don’t store food in your tent when in bear country. Take the time to find the right spot for your tent and another for food storage and eating.
Other Campsite Considerations
There are a few other considerations for choosing a campsite in the backcountry. While the ground might be perfect, you will want to look at the trees around you. If they look like they could fall over in the windstorm or that there are branches ready to spear your tent, don’t position your tent under them. These are called “widow makers”. Find a spot away from a falling tree’s path, especially when you are expecting bad weather.
Cleanliness of the campsite can be a concern on high traffic trails. Unfortunately, not everyone will be considerate and some may leave garbage behind. When possible, pick up what you find and take it with you to keep it clean for others. If you feel that the site has the potential to attract rodents or predators, or the campground has been used as a public restroom (look for toilet paper), you may want to find another spot.
Finally, check out who else is already camping there. If you feel that they are going to be noisy neighbors who are a bit rowdy (more common at campsites with easier road access), you might want to keep hiking. Most neighbors aren’t a problem are are likeminded people who are wanting to enjoy nature and exchange stories. Every now and then, you might get a set of neighbors who want to party away their weekend. If that’s your scene, maybe they’ll offer you a little trail magic and you’ll have a great time sharing the spot together.
To Conclude
These are tips to help you determine an appropriate campsite in the backcountry. If you are in a safe and legal place to set up camp, that is great place to camp. If you can find a campsite that also has a great view, even better!
Keeping a journal of your hike is a great way to capture different moments you experienced during the day. You will find that the longer you are on the trail, your memories will blur together. Over time, you will forget what you saw first, the names of people you met, or what campsite you were at where you got the worst sleep. Journaling will give you an opportunity to capture those details and relive them at a later time and share more accurately what you experienced.
What Type of Journal Should You Use?
I brought along a thin booklet that barely added any weight. It had enough pages for the trip and was not intended to capture every hike I have been on. I used a mechanical pencil since I didn’t want to pack a sharpener if I broke the lead. I needed to make sure I still had daylight to write otherwise I needed to bring out my headlamp.
While my preference is to hand write in a journal, others might use a notepad app on their phone and write out their thoughts. The only issue with this method would be if you wanted to conserve your phone battery.
I don’t use any templated journal designed for capturing hike details. I use a simple lined notebook and write my thoughts as they come to me.
When to Journal
At the end of the day, I would sit at our campsite (most often inside the tent) and write out a summary from the day. I found that writing at the end of the day kept the memories fresh in my mind and was a way to unwind after a long day of hiking. Even then, I was often asking my husband for the name of a pass we climbed or how many miles we had hiked before reaching a particular milestone.
My husband doesn’t keep a journal when he is hiking but my mother-in-law recently gifted him a notebook to capture his hikes. He has since gone back through his photos and printed pictures from his hikes and pasted them into the journal to keep. He will be updating the journal with his future adventures.
What to Write About in Your Journal
Sometimes it is difficult to think about what you might journal about. You might think there is nothing to write about besides counting trees. There is plenty to capture in a journal. You just need to reflect on your day and replay images or conversations in your mind.
Describe the Trail
Writing about what the trail was like that day is an easy topic. You can describe elevation gains and descents, if there were switchbacks, and even the condition of the trail. Note river crossings and how easy they were. Write about the meadows you walked through or challenging obstacles.
Make Note of Who You Meet
You don’t need to ask everyone for their names, but capturing if there were other people on the trail is an interesting fact to capture. On longer trails, days could pass before you encounter another person. Note down if they stayed at the same campground as you, any information they passed along, or anything that stood out to you. And if you happen to meet a Trail Angel, you will want to remember them.
Document What You See
When on the trail, there is much to journal about. You can write about the animals you saw, moss or mushrooms, or spectacular views. I found myself writing about outhouses and their condition. Some had toilet paper. Others were wrapped in chicken wire. Writing about what you saw is probably the easiest topic to write about in a journal. A challenge would be to write down the smaller details that you could easily forget about later.
Journal About What Excited You
Was there a particular goal you had set for yourself on this day? Did you put in extra miles? Maybe there was a view that you found to be the most amazing out of all of the sights you had seen. Along the trail, there could be small touches, such as a bridge over a creek, that make your day. Write about those things.
Write About Your Feelings
Not everyone is comfortable writing about their feelings, but who said you need to share your journal entries? If you’re blogging, you can write it in a post and keep it private. If writing in a book, don’t give it to others to read. Writing out your emotions can help you work through the challenges you’re facing. It might be writing about something happening on or off the trail. Getting outdoors and away from other distractions can truly be helpful. Capturing your reflections in your journal is another opportunity to understand what you’re processing.
You don’t only need to write about your feelings. How you “feel” can also be about your senses. Are you in any physical discomfort? Do you have blisters or sore muscles? Temperatures fluctuate on the trail and you can go from feeling hot to cold in a matter of hours. You can always journal about the amount of sleep you got because the frogs were croaking all night long.
Capture Trail Facts
Not everyone is into capturing their feelings. You might be the sort of person who prefers to gather the facts. Journaling could consist of noting the exact location of water sources and how they are flowing. You might also capture the condition of campsites, including if there are bear lockers available, firepits, or the number of tent pads. This information would be valuable to pass on to other hikers and for you should you want to camp on the same trail in the future.
What Worked and Didn’t Work Well
It is always great to write down the lessons you observed along the way. You might want to write a quick review on a piece of gear you brought with you. It could be you started too late in the day for the number of miles you wanted to do. Maybe you used an alternate that brought you to an unexpected viewpoint. Take a moment to think about your day and what you would want to do again or what you would want to change.
Journaling Should Be Fun
I’ll leave you with this final thought on journaling, which is that you should find it enjoyable. There may be days when you are exhausted from hiking and not feel like picking up a pen to write. That’s okay. If you feel that you hate journaling and you’re only doing it because you packed a notebook, then don’t do it. We’ve all packed things with us that we never ended up using. If you start journaling and discover it is taking away from your experience, it isn’t the trail activity for you. Take out your camera and take pictures to capture those moments another way. Find a way to remember your hike in the way that works best for you.
When choosing what to pack for your backpacking trip, think about how many days you are hiking, the weight you’re carrying, and the season. You will need to make adjustments to any list depending on your own personal needs. Follow this link to view our current gear list.
Bring the Right Shelter
On the trail, you are going to want to pack the best sleeping system for you. Consider how you sleep when choosing a sleeping bag or a quilt. Temperatures for the season will dictate the temperature rating of both your bag/quilt and pad. When packing a tent, think about the weight and how much room you need for you, your partner, and your gear.
Tent
Sleeping pad
Sleeping bag / quilt (rated for the temperatures you’re hiking in)
Pillow or stuff sac
Optional: Ground sheet
Optional: Extra tent pegs
Consider Food & Water
Depending on where you are hiking, bear safety for food storage is an important consideration. You will need to identify the best solution to pack your food when in bear country. Even when not in bear country, you need to pack out your garbage and keep mice out of your food. Also think about how you want to filter your water as more water sources will require purification. Make sure you pack enough calories and don’t forget about managing your electrolytes.
Food storage (e.g. Ursack or BearVault)
Water filter / purification
Water bottles (e.g. Smart water bottles)
Stove (e.g. Jetboil Stash)
Spork
Titanium mug
Freeze dried meals
Snacks (e.g. nuts, jerky)
Electrolytes
Ziploc bag for trash
Pack the Right Clothing
Packing clothing is probably the toughest part of packing for a trail. You have to consider the weather, which is not always predictable. Don’t underestimate the importance of dry socks. Reserving one pair to only wear around camp is a recommended luxury item. Please don’t carry your entire wardrobe. Re-wear clothing and stop in a town to do laundry and take a shower.
Hat / Toque / Beanie
Shorts / Pants
Short sleeve / long sleeve shirt
Fleece and/or Puffy
Thermal layer
Socks for hiking
Socks for camp
Hiking boots or shoes
Shoes for camp / Water crossing (e.g. Crocs)
Underwear
Gloves
Helpful Gear to Include in Your Packing List
We use trekking poles not only for stability but also for our tent. Some items on this list can be optional based on your preference. We often pack most of these items on our trips.
Pack the amount of toilet paper you think you will need and bring extra. A rash cream of some sort will be helpful with chaffing from your pack or in other sensitive places. Don’t forget to put any smelling products, such as toothpaste, in your bear safe storage at night.
Ziploc bags (Protect your clean toilet paper and another for used paper)
Make sure you pack with safety in mind. In bear country (particularly grizzly bears), you are going to want to pack bear spray. Sunscreen is something you might easily forget and will remember once you start to burn. Always travel with an SOS device and tell someone your travel plans.
Bear spray
First aid kit
Sunscreen
Bug spray
Map and compass or GPS
SOS device (e.g. Garmin inReach)
Entertainment Bundle
Don’t forget the importance of giving yourself something to do when you are stuck in your tent during a rainstorm. When the temperatures drop and you hide out in your tent, having a little something tucked in your pack to help pass the time is helpful. Choose something small and light to enhance your trip.
Journal with pencil
Deck of cards
Kindle
Camera
Final Reminder
It is easy to make a list and stuff everything into your backpack. It is another thing to carry the weight for several days over several miles. Be wise about what you truly need. Don’t be afraid to cut something from your gear if you need to. Make sure you have the right gear for the right weather on the right trail.
We didn’t get a lot of footage during our hike at Gros Morne National Park but we did take a lot of pictures. This video is more of a slide show, but it should give you a nice idea of what the traverses have to offer at Gros Morne.
In 2021, my husband had expressed an interest in hiking a section of the Great Divide Trail (GDT). He had made arrangements with a friend to hike Section C, but his friend needed to back out. To keep himself from hiking alone, he used Facebook groups to find another hiker to join him on the trail. While he was trying to find a hiking partner, I had been quietly pondering the idea of joining him. Once I told him I was interested, we developed a plan to prepare me for the trip.
Starting Slow
Close to our home was a popular hiking trail. It was perfect for getting my legs ready. We started off with no weight and simply walked the loop of the trail. We counted steps with our smart watches and noted the time it took to complete it each time.
Rain didn’t deter us from hiking as we wouldn’t have that option when we were on the GDT. If it was pouring rain, we would stay home, but a little drizzle was not something to hold us back. Our dog thought our dedication to walking was marvelous and wanted to point out every squirrel he could find.
Adding a Little Weight
As my legs became used to hiking the loop, I started wearing a backpack with a small amount of weight. My body immediately noticed the difference. My pace was slower, but I was determined to get my pace back up to what it was pre-backpack. We increased the number of days per week that we hiked and over time we gradually added more weight. Soon I was carrying ~30lbs over 8-10kms.
Trying an Overnight Hike
After walking the loop multiple times per week in both directions, it was time to hike a different trail. We settled on the the Boreal Trail in Meadow Lake, Saskatchewan. While it was a relatively flat trail, it offered distance and pre-determined camping spots. We positioned vehicles at our entry and exit points and set out on our overnight trip.
As we hiked, I learned that I didn’t have any problems with climbing over fallen trees. What I did have issues with was the pack not sitting right on my shoulders over long periods. We would need to adjust my pack. I also learned what gear I didn’t want to bring with me when we hiked the GDT. This was also my first time drinking filtered water that had some unwanted guests in our filter. We found water sources containing fresh water shrimp and leeches. Yummy!
What are the Benefits of a Preparation Hike?
Physical Readiness – By doing an early hike, I was able to get my body somewhat ready for what was coming. I say “somewhat” because I couldn’t replicate the mountain terrain. Doing a hike with weight over distance provided an introduction.
Confidence – After we finished our hike in the Boreal Trail, I felt I was capable of hiking the GDT. I knew I wouldn’t be the fastest hiker, but I could carry my own gear. It gave me an understanding of my pace.
Gear Check – A preparation hike helped me determine what gear I wanted to remove from my pack. I also noted what was missing. There was gear I hadn’t used before and learned to trust it, such as gaiters and bear spray.
Adjust to Nature – Sleeping outdoors is different. It can be difficult to sleep when you hear birds, frogs, or other animal noises. It is also challenging at dusk or at night wondering if a bear is watching you nearby as you go to an outhouse or other private corner. A preparation hike provided the opportunity to settle my nerves and not feel I was going to get eaten if I stepped away from my campsite for a few minutes.
Communication – A preparation hike when on trail with someone else is helpful to learn each other’s hiking styles and needs. My husband is an independent hiker. He likes having others hike with him for safety in numbers, but he doesn’t feel the need to stick close. I have a certain distance that I like to keep between us (although I have found that distance has been increasing). Having an initial hike before going on Section C gave us a chance to set expectations before venturing out.
Time to Hike
Completing a preparation hike will give you the confidence you need before going out on the trail. It gives you the chance to identify areas that need a little correcting or what is going to work best for you. While not everyone is going to need a preparation hike, who is going to complain about finding another excuse to hike?
During our hike of the Pioneer Footpath, we captured footage of our hike from Pinware to L’Anse au Loup in 2022. This is a lesser known trail that had connected fishing villages along the coast of Labrador, Canada. The trail can be experienced as multiple short day hikes or a shorter thru-hike. Check out our video and subscribe to see future videos.
In August 2023, we decided to hike both the Northern and Long Range Traverse in Newfoundland. The Northern Traverse is estimated at 27 km long and the Long Range Traverse is said to be 35 km. To those who enjoy multi-day hikes, this doesn’t sound like a lot of km to cover, but this route does not have a trail and goes through some difficult terrain which makes you earn each one of those km.
Before going on this hike, you need to get a permit from the visitor’s centre and to be granted a permit, you must attend their mandatory orientation. Here they will go over how this is not a trail, you are not going for a nice little stroll, and you are choosing suffering. They tell you to be prepared to have wet feet, be eaten by black flies, and generally have a miserable time. They also tell you that it is some of the most beautiful scenery you will see, and they are right about that. Most of what they emphasize is the tuckamore, especially the section they call “Tuckamore Tangle” if doing the Northern Traverse, and what it will do to your gear and your navigation.
I almost backed out of doing both traverses in one go after a pre-orientation conversation with Parks staff as we had a timeframe to complete the trail and I worried that we might be better off doing one or the other. After digesting what was said and seeing the actual orientation, I changed my mind and we were back to doing both. We were experienced and were prepared for what was going to be thrown at us. We got a ride to the trailhead from a couple who were going to do the Long Range Traverse the following day and got ready to step off.
Day One – Northern Trailhead to Snug Harbor This was the easiest portion of the hike as we walked down a nice gravel path which leads to the tour boats. There is a little junction for those going on the Northern Traverse that leads into the forest and eventually to a river crossing where we waded in knee-high water to the other side. We were warned that this water crossing can get waist high in some weather conditions. This stretch was generally uneventful as we pushed through overgrown paths, climbed down onto the sandy and rocky beach and back into the forest again. Eventually we made it to Snug Harbor which had about four or five tenting spots, two large chairs on the beach, a bear box, picnic table, and a green throne. It was the best maintained site on the trail with a beautiful view. At night, the toads were very loud and woke me up, but experiencing nature is what we were out there for.
Day Two – Snug Harbor to the Crest We started out this day with a beach walk to where the “trail” begins in the trees. We ran into a couple who were exiting the Northern Traverse and showed us their scratched, bitten, and bruised legs. Almost immediately we were climbing and we attempted to follow the ribbons tied to the trees. We’d check the GPS and find we were off track and readjusted only to see another ribbon to our left or right that was only visible from above. We found clothing items that had been snagged on branches and chuckled, making a mental note to keep a close eye on anything drying on our packs. Eventually we made it out to an open area on the hillside with a view of the ocean in the distance. The clouds were moving in (and the fog) and we knew we needed to find our stopping point for the night before the forecasted storm hit. The wind was kicking up as we settled on a patch of moss in the tuckamore. It wasn’t perfectly flat and I had a mound of dirt to sleep against all night, but it was sheltered. The wind and rain battered our tent and both of us went out into the field across from our site to gather stones to pile onto the stakes as they had a difficult time staying stuck in the moss. It was a long night as our tent took a beating until the storm passed in the early morning hours.
Day Three – Crest to Triangle Lake This was the day where we were introduced to tuckamore. We spent a bit of time trying to locate the trail. It was hidden under the low brush and while we thought we could make out where there was a break in the tuckamore, or where the trail might be, we couldn’t spot how hikers chose to get there. We had to backtrack a couple of times as we ended up on game trails and then got deeper into the tuckamore. Everything was boggy. Grass was boggy, mud and water pooled around the base of the tuckamore, forcing us to swing from the branches from one root to another, hoping to land of firm ground on the other side. I tested a patch of grass with my trekking pole only to find the ground give way when I stood on it, sinking to my knee. I placed my other foot on another patch to pull myself out, only for that foot to sink in too. My boots were now suctioned in knee-deep mud and my husband had to help pull me out as I couldn’t get any leverage.
Of course, the Northern Traverse wanted to also introduce us to its boulder fields where I learned that my balance on rocks needs improvement and it took a lot of patience to pick away at the obstacle. We reached Triangle Lake which had a couple of wooden tent pads and a few other flat patches that were suitable for tents. We had a nice rest in the sun and set up camp for the night.
Day Four – Triangle Lake to Gilley Pond Today we learned that tuckamore likes to grow in hillsides, which means climbing up and down while it snags on your packs, and for fun, the ground likes to erode under the branches and roots, so you could be scrambling over a drop of several feet all while hoping that the root you’re standing on will hold.
Where there was no tuckamore, there was a lot of uphill which was at such an angle that it was easier for me to claw my way up than try to stand upright. Oliver didn’t have this problem and just walked up, but I felt closer to the ground and decided it was a much better idea to take a few moments to sit on the moss and celebrate how far I’d come. It was during one of these moments that I looked up at a distant hillside and saw a moose running along the ridgeline. It was the only moose we would see on this trip. To finish off the day, the Northern Traverse decided to treat us with a long descent down into Gilley Pond. It might not have been that challenging of a descent, but given how muddy the hill was, it was a slow climb down. Even though we could see the camp, it took forever to get there. The view that night of the stars and the silhouettes of the hillsides was stunning. You could also hear the coyotes in the distance.
Day Five – Gilley Pond to Mark’s Pond For those choosing to do both the North and Long Range Traverse, this is decision time with regards to if you want to complete both traverses. After this day, you reach the top of the Fjord where you can climb down the waterfall and wait for space on the tour boat to get a ride back to the parking lot and quit the trail, or keep going. After talking about how we were feeling (tired, wet, and literally bruised by the tuckamore), we chose to keep going.
Being that is was the Northern Traverse, we had rain in the morning as we climbed out of Gilley Pond, making it a soggy and muddy climb out, then we found ourselves searching the tuckamore-covered hillside for signs of ribbons to guide our way through, and climb even more combinations of uneven ground and tuckamore before we finally reached the rock and moss hill that lead down to the viewpoint at the top of the waterfall. It was the payoff. We stopped here for lunch, had a good rest and celebrated reaching this beautiful location. We had chosen the hard way to get there, but it was beautiful. As we went to take a picture together, we realized that the legs of the mini tripod I had attached to the shoulder straps of my pack and been ripped off in the tuckamore, so our angles became limited.
Energized from reaching the top, we climbed up the rocky waterfall and continued along the top of the ridge, following the rolling hills to finally get to Mark’s Pond where we snagged a dry site along the lakeshore. You really need to get used to mud on this trail because there was a lot at this campground and at Little Island Pond before it. Also, look out for hidden little washouts on the paths. When lighting was poor in the evening, I stepped in a hole on my way to the green throne and made a splash as I landed in a puddle near the tent. I had one of my best sleeps at this site. It was lovely.
Day Six – Mark’s Pond to Lower Green Island Pond A creek crossing is the first thing to greet you as you leave Mark’s Pond. Most of this day didn’t feel all that bad, except for Oliver’s determination to keep his feet dry. The “trail” would run along the bottom of the hills and cut right through the muddy bog. Oliver would take wide swings around the bogs and climb up and down the hills. I would follow behind him, but found the effort was wearing me down. It added extra km and it was just more up and down for me to manage. The tall grass was also damp and as I followed him, I slipped. As I fell, my trekking pole sunk into the ground and I managed to grab hold of it and prevent myself from sliding all the way down the hill into the waiting bog. But the Northern Traverse had another slip in store for me.
I gave up following Oliver up onto the hills and decided to remain down in the bog and mud. My shoes and socks were already wet and I embraced the situation. The sound of squishing moss became the soundtrack for the trail as I stomped. And then I took another tumble. This time I was walking through mud and stepped on a rock. This should have been something solid for me to stand on, instead my mud-covered boots slipped on its surface as my trekking pole didn’t quite catch the solid patch of grass on my right side. As my pole sunk into the deepest portion of the mud, so did my right foot… and down I went. Oliver asked if I was alright and I lifted my now bent trekking pole out of the mud. RIP trekking pole.
At the end of the day, we reached a descent to our camp but quickly realized we were off the GPS route as we were at a cliff. It was a cliff we had been warned at the Visitor’s Centre to avoid and there we were, standing at the edge of it trying to figure out the best course of action. Neither of us felt like trying to jump or slide down nine feet onto a narrow dirt landing and instead chose to hang on to a piece of cord and a tree branch while inching our way across a slick rockface to another, much shorter drop. By the end of this, I was done for the day and we found a patch of grass near the occupied tent pads to set up for the night.
Day Seven – Lower Green Island Pond to Gros Morne Trailhead The final day on trail. This felt like a long day as we started with another creek crossing and then had several climbs to do and almost all of them were muddy. You have to understand that the steps that you climb up are goopy footprints from previous hikers and the mud wraps around your shoes with each step. Something about stepping on the mud didn’t make me feel confident as I didn’t have the grip I wanted. One really has to embrace getting wet and muddy on this trail and just lean in and grab hold of anything to get yourself up a muddy hillside. Let’s just say, I chose to slide down a few times.
We reached Bakeapple viewpoint which, I would say, is the second best view on the trail, but there are so many wonderful views along the way. It was another great place to stop and eat before we continued down Ferry Gulch (again, muddy and slippery) and then finally connected with the very long trail for day hikers doing Gros Morne mountain. Just when we thought we would be on a nice hiking trail, we encountered scree and plenty of uneven rock. There was even a little tuckamore thrown in, which we laughed at and called “baby tuckamore”.
The walk back to the car seemed to go on forever. By this point, we were ready to be at the parking lot as we were now in the trees on a wide open path with nothing to see, wondering “how much further”. As we met people along the way, they wanted to hear about our adventure, astonished that we had hiked all that way with the mud and tuckamore. When we reached the parking lot, we were relieved to see our car to make our way to Rocky Harbour where we would get a hotel and drop off our permit at the Visitor’s Centre so they knew we made it out.
At the hotel we got our town bags out of the car, had nice long showers, and treated ourselves to a huge meal at the restaurant, even if our now stiffening legs just wanted us to go to bed. After we were well fed, we finally gave in and climbed into the nice warm bed we had worked so hard to earn and had a great rest before our drive home the following day.
