About the Central Trail at Riding Mountain National Park

We were on the hunt for one last hike of 2025 and landed on Riding Mountain National Park. With four days available for hiking, we explored our options and found a combination of campgrounds that would allow us to hike all four days.

Riding Mountain National Park was established back in 1933 and was Manitoba’s first national park. It’s a pretty special place with a mix of forests, open meadows, and lakes that make it feel really varied and peaceful. You can see all kinds of wildlife here, including moose, elk, black bears, deer, and even foxes if you’re lucky. Birdwatchers have a lot to look for too, with over 200 species spotted in the park. Hiking through it is really enjoyable. There is something about the combination of quiet forests, open spaces, and sparkling lakes that makes it feel like a proper escape into nature.

The park offers a mix of day hikes as well as multi-day routes that can be planned end-to-end, as loops, or out-and-back. The loops were too short for what we wanted, and being limited to a single vehicle ruled out the end-to-end hikes. We chose an out-and-back route with a loop at the end that allowed us to stay at three different campgrounds while only repeating the middle section of the trail.

There are other trails in Riding Mountain National Park that interest us for future weekend hikes, such as the East Escarpment and Grey Owl’s Cabin. We’ll save those for next year. For this hike, our route was:

• Day 1: Central Trailhead to Whitewater Lake Campground
• Day 2: Whitewater Lake to Gunn Lake Campground
• Day 3: Gunn Lake Campground back toward Whitewater Lake and down to Long Lake
• Day 4: Long Lake through the Grasshopper Lake Trail, up to Central Trail, and back to the Central Trail Trailhead

Since this was our first year hiking in the area, we weren’t sure how busy the trails could be. Backcountry sites in Riding Mountain National Park do require reservations, but we had plenty of options available in the reservation system. Conditions may differ during peak season, so plan ahead and make your reservations early to secure the sites you want.

Day 1: Central Trailhead to Whitewater Lake

Wasagaming Townsite

We drove up to Wasagaming Campground on Thursday evening, planning to start the trail on Friday morning. The frontcountry campsite had all the amenities we could want, including flush toilets and showers. The downside was the time of year we visited. Some sites had already closed for the season, and even the closest outhouse to our campground loop was no longer available, which meant a longer walk to the restroom at night.

Another downside is that when you enjoy the quiet of backcountry camping, it can be tough to start your trip surrounded by the noise of vehicles arriving late, car alarms, and music from distant campsites. Fortunately, we knew we would be in the backcountry soon enough, and most people had quieted down before midnight. Staying at the campground saved money, since hotels aren’t cheap, and it put us in a good position to drive 40 minutes to the trailhead in the morning. From Winnipeg, the drive to the Central Trail Trailhead takes about three hours.

On Friday morning, we went into the townsite in search of breakfast. We wanted some good fuel before hitting the trail. Being later in the season, some locations had already closed for the year, and those that were open tended to open later in the morning. One exception was The Boardwalk on Clear Lake. We were pleasantly surprised by this little store, restaurant, and ice cream shop. While waiting for our orders of breakfast mash, Cheryl bought a new hat to wear on the trail. Our meals were ready quickly and were delicious. If you are looking for a place for breakfast before hiking, we would recommend The Boardwalk. You might also be tempted by a few baked goodies while you’re there.

Bison Enclosure

The nice thing about starting our hike on the Central Trail at the Central Trail Trailhead is its proximity to the bison enclosure. You could skip the enclosure and drive a little further from Audy Lake to reach the turnoff to the trail, but why not drive through the bison enclosure and see the bison first? Turn off at the enclosure and drive through. Along the way, you will reach a T-intersection. Turning right will take you back toward Wasagaming, while turning left leads to the bison viewing platform. The Central Trail Trailhead is just a little past the platform up another dirt road.

When we entered the enclosure, we weren’t sure if we would see any bison at all. We drove through open fields and winding trees before finally spotting them over a distant hill. Turning left at the T-intersection brought us right to them, with bison on both sides of the dirt road. We parked for a while, taking pictures and video before heading to the viewpoint. There is an outhouse here as well if you want to use the facilities. Take a moment to get out of your car, stretch your legs, and check out the bison from the platform.

A tip: don’t do what we did and go back the way you came from the platform, which takes you back to the T-intersection. Instead, follow the road around the platform to reach the trailhead.

Bison viewing tip: We recommend visiting the bison in the morning when you start the trail. In the afternoon, they are more likely to be resting in the shade of the trees, out of sight, especially if you try to view them after you exit the trail.

Central Trail Parking Lot and Trailhead

While it was still early morning when we drove to the Central Trail, the dirt road leading up to the trailhead was lined with sunbathing snakes. Unfortunately, some of these snakes had not survived encounters with vehicles that had passed through. We did our best to dodge them on the single-lane road. Hopefully, most of them made it through the morning sun safely.

The Central Trail Trailhead has two small dirt parking lots that can each fit about three to four cars. We had no trouble finding parking, but during peak season, it could be a challenge if you are competing with day hikers. Time your arrival accordingly.

This trailhead also serves as the parking lot for the Strathclair Trail. When we arrived, we saw cyclists heading out for a ride. The Strathclair Trail also has campgrounds, but it is best done with two vehicles for an end-to-end hike. Like the Central Trail, you can do an out-and-back hike, choosing how far you want to go before turning around. Unlike our route on the Central Trail, it does not offer loop options like the Grasshopper Valley section we planned.

At the parking lot, you will find a garbage can for any last-minute trash you don’t want to leave in your car. There is also a green throne toilet down a short path at the turnaround loop. Keep in mind that there are no doors, so use the hiker signal of trekking poles in the path, make some noise, or have a friend stand guard during busy season. When we arrived, there was toilet paper in a mailbox attached to a post by the toilet, but the supply was limited by the time we were leaving. Always bring your own on the trail just in case.

Toward Whitewater Lake

Following the Central Trail to Whitewater Lake is about 10.4 kilometers. There is roughly a hundred meters to the Strathclair Trail fork from the trailhead and another hundred meters from the Central Trail down the approach to Whitewater Lake. A sign along the way will indicate the distance to the next turnoff, but it doesn’t always show the final distance to your destination.

We found the trail very easy. Riding Mountain National Park’s map also labels it as easy, and we agree. The trail is mostly flat, with just a couple of small hills near the end. There was one downed tree that hadn’t been cleared yet. Oliver chose to go around it, while Cheryl climbed through. Both options worked fine.

The ground had no tripping hazards, unless you count your own feet or the wagon and tire tracks. There were a few gravel sections, but most of the trail was grass-covered with some patches of mud. Horse droppings were more common than bear scat along the way.

We noticed signs of prescribed burns and other trail maintenance, which made it clear that the park takes its time to keep the area healthy and safe for visitors. We were happy to see their efforts.

While the trail doesn’t reach any high points, there are glimpses of meadows where wildlife can sometimes be spotted. We like to make noise on the trail to avoid surprising bears, so we didn’t see much wildlife—except for grouse, which don’t seem to mind you sneaking up on them, even when you give them plenty of warning.

We made quick work of the trail and arrived at Whitewater Lake in time for lunch. The signage made it easy to spot where we would be hiking on the return trip and where we would be heading the following day.

Whitewater Lake Campsite

Approximately 100 meters off the Central Trail is Whitewater Lake Campground. As you enter, you’ll see a hitching post corral for horses and a register box with a log book. When we reserved our campsite, there were no other guests booked, so we knew we would have the place to ourselves. From reading the log book, it looked like there were usually one or two groups at the site, so it’s not overused.

Whitewater Lake Campground is built on the site of an old World War II POW camp. There are a couple of signs at the campground which explain the history as well as a hand crank to power up some educational audio recordings. We appreciated having the opportunity to explore some of the history of the area while we were there.

The campground is fairly open. When reserving, we recommend selecting site 1, as you can pitch a tent under the tree for shade. Site 2 has potential if they were to clean up behind the site marker, allowing a tent to be pitched closer to the trees, but as it was when we visited, tents could only be set up in the open field with no shade. Site 3 might look sunny at first, but the trees behind it do a decent job of blocking the sun. Our recommendation is to choose site 1 first, then site 3.

The bear lockers were in excellent condition with no signs of mice. We were happy to have a secure place to store our food. On this trip, we brought food bags instead of bear canisters since lockers were available. Our only concern was small gaps where a mouse might squeeze in, but the locks kept the lids sealed and we had no issues.

While Cheryl pitched the tent, Oliver went for a 5-kilometer run back along Central Trail. Since he was now familiar with the stretch from Whitewater Lake to the Long Lake connector, he ran from the water pump to the turnoff about 2.1 kilometers away and then turned around. The hills on the return to camp were a bit more challenging the second time through.

With the hike over for the day and Oliver’s run completed, it was time to relax around camp and search for the lake.

Evening in Camp

We put in a good effort to find the creek canoe access that was used when the site was a POW camp. We went behind the water pump and bushwhacked through the trees until we came out along the winding creek. There were many tussocks along the edge, which made walking challenging. We had planned to follow the creek until we reached the lake, but we quickly realized just how far away it was and how uneven the terrain would be. We had no interest in twisting an ankle.

Instead, we made our way back through the trees and studied the map to see if there was another way to the lake. Log reports mentioned a lot of swamp, which we had hoped to avoid, and it soon became clear how difficult the trek would be. We called off our attempt and instead strolled around the site, searching for remnants of the past. You can find scraps from an old power building and the foundation of another structure near the water pump. A few old pipes stick out of the ground here and there if you take a wander through the grass.

As we sat by a fire, we watched geese fly overhead and listened to the bugling of elk. Eventually, coyotes started yapping, and later, even wolves could be heard howling. While we couldn’t see much wildlife, we could hear it all around us. We watched the sunset and, after dousing the last of the flames, climbed into the tent.

The sounds carried on through the night. At one point, Cheryl heard something cracking in the trees, which she figured was probably a deer. There was also the sound of rocks clanging together, likely from the creekbed that ran along one side of the field. A deer probably dislodged a few stones while climbing up. Otherwise, it was a quiet, uneventful evening—the kind of night we like best.

Central Trail Conditions and Scenery

We found the first day on Central Trail to be very easy. There was one downed tree on the trail that hadn’t been cleared yet, but otherwise the grass was mowed and the path was clear. There were some tire rivets along the trail, though we couldn’t tell if they came from maintenance vehicles or the wagons used for horse-and-wagon rides that go through the area.

This trail connects to other day hikes and campgrounds along the way, such as Grasshopper Valley to the end of Lake Audy or the Minnedosa River Campground. If you are looking for a short hike to a backcountry campground with your family, Minnedosa is a simple option, with only the final approach being slightly uneven in places. We discovered this campground on our final day as we hiked back to the trailhead.

There are a few short hills about seven kilometers into the trail, but none of them were strenuous. Unless you take one of the connector trails, you shouldn’t have any trouble following the route. Central Trail is wide and mostly mowed grass, and you only need to turn off when reaching a connector trail or the turnoff to your destination. Each turn is clearly marked with signs showing the distance.

At times, the trail feels like a tunnel through the trees. Since we hiked in the fall, the changing colors of the leaves made it especially enjoyable. Fireweed and other plants added variety along the path. Keep an eye on the sides of the trail for open meadows and other breaks in the trees—they offer moments of charm. Also, watch for grouse, which have a knack for giving you a surprise.

Whitewater Lake Campground Amenities and Tips

Water Pump: Some logbook comments mention that the water pump can be difficult to locate when the grass isn’t maintained. To be helpful, we documented its location in our video. Basically, stand behind the firewood shelter and face the small aspen to the right of the World War II signs. Stay between a few short aspens and head toward the cluster of trees down a slight decline. The pump will be near the trees, close to a small remnant of an old building foundation.

Outhouse: The outhouse at Whitewater Lake was in decent condition. Tucked away in the trees near the campground, it had adequate toilet paper. It made some creaking noises in the wind, but it wasn’t going anywhere.

Firewood: For the end of September, the firewood pile was well stocked. We were able to enjoy a nice fire that evening without putting a dent in the pile.

Bear Lockers: Whitewater Lake had good bear lockers located a reasonable distance from the campsite. We’re used to lockers being even further away, but this distance was fine. They were solid, with no signs of mouse entry.

Final Thoughts on Central Trail Trailhead to Whitewater Lake – Day 1

Our first day on the Central Trail was a gentle introduction to Riding Mountain National Park. The trail itself was very easy, with mostly flat, mowed grass and just a few short hills near the end. With clear signage and wide paths, it was simple to follow, and the fall colours added a beautiful touch along the way. Even though we didn’t see any wildlife on the trail itself, the occasional grouse and glimpses of meadows reminded us that the park is alive with activity.

Whitewater Lake Campground was a perfect spot to end the day. The campground is open, peaceful, and well-maintained, with good bear lockers and a couple of shaded tenting options. We enjoyed exploring the remnants of the old POW camp, wandering along the creek, and taking in the sights and sounds of nature. The bugling of elk, the calls of coyotes, and even distant wolf howls made for a memorable evening, proving that you don’t need to see wildlife to experience it fully.

Overall, the first day was a great mix of easy hiking, historical exploration, and peaceful backcountry camping. It set the tone for the rest of our trip and reminded us why Riding Mountain National Park is such a special place for both first-time visitors and experienced hikers. With well-marked trails, good terrain, and opportunities to enjoy the sights and sounds of nature, it’s a hike that feels accessible while still offering a true sense of adventure.

Day 1 Summary

• Date: September 26, 2025
• Distance: Central Trail Trailhead to Whitewater Lake – 10.4 km / 6.4 mi
• Elevation: 213 ft
• Amenities:
  • Central Trailhead: Green throne toilet, garbage can, trail maps, parking.
  • Whitewater Lake: Pit toilet, firewood, water pump, firepit, picnic tables, horse hitching posts, bear lockers.
• Water Sources: No water source at trailhead, water pump at Whitewater Lake Campground. No lake access.
• Wildlife: Bison enclosure near trailhead, deer tracks, beaver dams, elk bugling, wolves and coyotes howling at night and some bear scat.
• Navigation: Wide, mowed trail with clear signage showing distances to the parking lot and next cabin
• Best Time to Hike: Spring (before ticks) or fall (after ticks). We heard the ticks at Riding Mountain National Park are very bad when the grass hasn’t been mowed.

WATCH THE VIDEO FROM RIDING MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK: CENTRAL TRAIL TO WHITEWATER LAKE – DAY 1

More From This Hike:

• Hiking Riding Mountain National Park: Central Trail to Whitewater Lake | Day 1 (You’re here!)
• More coming soon!