This article was first published on The Trek on February 14, 2025.
Why a 50-Year-Old Chaplain Chose the Arizona Trail
So what makes a 50 year old military chaplain want to burn a year’s worth of leave on one trail experience? Why leave behind wife and family, work and responsibilities to take on a long trail? I am sure there are people in my life questioning my sanity at just wanting to walk for 800 miles in a go, but there are probably some who will be asking the deeper questions. It is natural to wonder, and also very common to judge that thru hikers are shirking responsibilities, ignoring those who need them, being selfish, having a mid-life crisis (or quarter-life crisis, depending on age), there’s a million assumptions that could be made. So I will attempt an explanation.
Where to start. I am going to begin with 2022. It probably wasn’t the beginning. There are neither beginnings nor endings on the wheel of time… but it was a beginning. After three years of COVID and the challenges that go along with that, Canada was finally beginning to return to normal. And just like that, real estate prices took off. In 2022 we were slated to be posted to a new base, and we realized that most of the places I could be sent would be to inflated housing markets, which if a market correction happened, would destroy a lot of equity for us. The only alternative was to take a posting to an isolated base, where we could live in base provided housing. Goose Bay, NL was available, so I put my name forward for it and was accepted.
From Isolation and Burnout to Rediscovery
July 2022: rolling up on a more than 5000km road move with the family
The downside to such an isolated station was that I would be a one of one, and far from immediate support if things go sideways. As I mentioned, COVID had affected many, and I was feeling like I needed more human connection and support, but thought I could “tough out” three years there, especially if the community was as close-knit as I was led to believe. And certainly, that wasn’t a lie, but I probably underestimated the relational barrier that my trade presents. People make assumptions, sometimes subconsciously, and it leads to distance.
By the dead of winter, 2024, I was beginning to notice that the isolation was affecting me. I was starting to see signs in me that I had been trained to watch for in others. I was thinking possibly burnout, but my wife and I thought that an early spring hiking trip together might give me some sun, some vitamin D, and R&R to get my mind back in the game. We decided on a section hike of the AZT.
Down in a wash north of the Gabe Zimmerman Trailhead
It was a very good time from my perspective. I did come back feeling better… for a couple of weeks. But then the symptoms were back. By May I decided to throw a flag on the play as it were, and alert my supervisor that I needed some support. I was put on sick leave, but I found it very difficult to separate myself from the job when you’re the only one there doing your job, and feelings of guilt and responsibility for people continued to weigh me down.
Health Scare and the Need to Rebuild
I threw myself into running training, which I usually do in the early spring because it’s really easy to slack off in the silly season of October to December. I pushed myself perhaps too hard one day in early June, doing some very intense sprints. Did I mention I was 49? My Garmin Instinct 2 watch told me my heart rate was 200. 200? That can’t be right. I watched it as I finished up my training program and it stayed in that range for 15 minutes before normalizing. I thought, a minute or two it could just be a glitch, but that long a period, I should probably check in with my doctor.
I popped by the base medical, and saw my doctor, who referred me to the hospital for a blood test. The hospital took my blood, and then in a few minutes returned wanting to put me on monitors, and admitted me for more tests.
I had never experienced anything like this before. The sudden concern, the tests, the medications… they all had me doubting my health for the first time in my life. That evening one of the medications dropped my heart rate abnormally low, which I now believe set off my first panic attack in my life. The doctor took me off that med, but by the next day they told me that I was showing signs of having experienced a cardiac event, and they wanted me to stay on bedrest until they could move me to the provincial capital, a 2 hour plane flight away. So began a wait of over 3 weeks in the hospital, wondering if I was dying every day.
By early July they finally found me a spot on a medivac flight (I had to wait because I was stable, compared to many other cardiac patients they saw during that time). In St. John’s they gave me a dye test and a heart ultrasound, until finally concluding that no, I did not have a heart attack. But I did have a little plaque, and they kept me on Statins to resolve that.
So I returned home having been told no, I am not dying, but basically in a state where the burnout I had been feeling had now been piled on by a large dose of health anxiety. I needed to begin to rebuild myself, my confidence, my resilience, and find a new way of living that would allow me to return to the work that I loved, helping people and making a difference.
The Physical, Mental, and Spiritual Benefits of Thru-Hiking
These guys didn’t thru-hike. That, and they threatened Wyatt Earp and his brothers. Neither was a healthy decision.
Over the years as my passion for hiking had grown, I had run across studies of veterans with PTSD and other disorders, experiencing wilderness adventures and even through hiking and finding themselves making real progress. For me, I believe that this thru hike can do a lot for me in terms of rebuilding myself. What will it do?
I won’t have to be responsible for anyone but myself. Eat, hike, sleep. The daily rhythm will provide stability and rest from the variable environment I have been in.
I don’t have to chaplain anyone. I don’t have to parent anyone (I have teenage and young adult sons at home). I can lay those burdens and stressors down for a time. To be fair, and I have been told by several peers, I need to be able to let go of my job, and be okay with it being someone else’s responsibility. I can make excuses about why that’s hard, but I can’t disagree.
Physical Health. Using my body all day every day, I fully expect to lose some weight.
Trust again in my Body. I also expect that overcoming the challenges of the trail will help restore my confidence in my own health, that I am not dying, that I am not fragile. It is easy to tell oneself these things, it is another to believe it deep inside after a scare like I had.
Reconnection to the Spirit. As a chaplain, my faith is not just a part of me. My sense of hope, my sense of purpose, my recognition of the parts of the person that are often overlooked or neglected by others are key to doing my job well. These things are meant to be shared, especially for people who are doing a job that deals with life and death. I have found I have been so busy serving others that I have let my own connection shallow out. I need to spend time with God – undistracted time. I have always found that easier in nature; in creation.
Trail Connections. My hope is that I do not spend the whole time alone. My hope is that I will meet fellow travellers along the trail and form new relationships – relationships that do not expect anything from me, that do not see me as “other”. And from these relationships perhaps I will carry some into the future to help sustain me after I return to work and life.
So that’s my why. A little long-winded perhaps, but I actually skipped a lot! Save some for camp chat in the evenings, I hope!
Watch the first video in Oliver’s Arizona Trail Series on YouTube:
This article was first published on The Trek on February 6, 2025 under the title Solo AZT Loadout – Kinda UL.
My Arizona Trail Gear List for 2025
Everyone loves gear lists, don’t they? I am not sure why, because it seems to me what’s in your pack is very much in the same vein as “Hike Your Own Hike” – your reasons for hiking, for speed, for zeroes, and for carrying next to nothing or the kitchen sink are your own, and probably unique to you.
But maybe that is what makes gearlists so fascinating. Because they are like a fingerprint. They identify you, where you’ve been, how you think, and probably more.
So, with that preamble, I present to you another gearlist (clicky linky for Lighterpack) running 15.9lbs Baseweight. This gearlist is by no means generic. Let me give you a run down of the big flavours.
What Makes My Arizona Trail Gear List Unique
It’s a Canadian’s Arizona Trail gear list. Despite us being America’s next door neighbour, our dollar is weaker, and whatever kind of “free trade” deal is currently in place does not touch duties and costs of cross-border shopping.
It’s a 50 year old‘s gearlist. I got me some pills to take, and a set of reading glasses, and probably some other bits and bobs that a strapping 20 year old wouldn’t even think to take.
It’s a gearlist that still has some throwback items I have had from before I ever heard of Ultralight. There’s probably a story for each of them… catch me in camp some evening and I’ll tell you a couple.
It’s a gearlist to hike the AZT. There’s a lot of stuff I am leaving at home, because it just isn’t needed. Two of them are bug spray and bear spray, just as examples. And there’s some stuff that I would only bring to the desert – the foam mattress, the stargazer kit and the groundsheet to name a few.
Arizona Trail gear for 2025.
The Big Four and Core Setup
Here’s a closer look at the core setup of my Arizona Trail gear list, including my shelter, sleep system, and pack. My shelter is the Durston Drop XMid 1P. That’s right, the OG. I picked it up back when I first began to hear of ultralight, and I cast my eyes around for a trekking pole tent that would not break the bank. Sadly, next to none of them were available in Canada. But at least this one was designed by a Canadian, so I ate the import duties and received my prize. Honestly, I haven’t had it out much – I picked up a 2P a year later when my wife wanted to do a section of the Great Divide Trail with me. Had to snag it second hand, they were rare as hen’s teeth at that time.
I have the stargazer kit and the new groundsheet, mainly because desert nights could be both prickly and stunning. Worth the weight penalty.
My sleep system is going to include my oldest foam mattress, an old Thermarest Z-Lite from I think about 2003. That will go in the tent on the bottom, not necessarily for extra warmth, but to protect my air mattress. On top of that will be my Nemo Tensor insulated, which is plenty of R-Value for me. I’ve had it out in sub-freezing temps and been fine on it. I have a Thermarest mattress sheet as well – a small weight penalty, but I can wash it with my laundry and it will take my sweat and body oils. I just upgraded my pillow from a Sea-to-Summit Aeros to the Aeros UL Deluxe. I found the smaller pillow to be awkward to manage, hoping the larger one works better. Lastly, I have a hand-stitched 20 degree quilt from Little Shop of Hammocks, a cottage company in Saskatchewan. I’ve actually met the owner (and craftsperson) who made it while on trail and it’s excellent work.
My pack, you can probably guess is a DurstonGear Kakwa 55. I have a Drop 40 and a Kakwa 40 as well, but I find that when I use the Kakwa 40 for extended trips, I max it out. I mean, it’s stuffed. So I decided to grab a 55 so I don’t have to spend as much time carefully organizing and compressing everything, and so that I can fit a bearcan if I have to. Not that I’m bringing one this time.
Hanging out with a statue at Colossal Caves in 2024.
Food, Water, and Clothing for the Desert
When planning my Arizona Trail gear list, I paid close attention to food, water, and clothing to survive desert conditions. I am still extremely weirded out at how nonchalant hikers are on the AZT. People eat in their tents, sleep with their food bags, and never worry about rodents or bears. It’s crazy. But, I am not going to overpack so I am just bringing a drysack with an Opsak inside for food (I think I’m going to eat outside my tent anyway, and hopefully there will be no food scents inside), and then a Sawyer Squeeze for water. I’ve used and been happy with the Katadyn BeFree on many trips, but I’ve been convinced that the rugged Squeeze will serve me better with the sketchy water sources on this trip. I also picked up a CNOC 2L bladder to complement my Smartwater bottles, which will give me a carrying capacity of 4L on the trail. I hope that’s sufficient.
For a stove, I prefer the Jetboil Stash. I have used a BRS stove, and must concede it is lighter, but the Jetboil just outperforms it in so many ways, I won’t be going back unless I am desperate. The Stash boils faster, uses less fuel, won’t overheat and collapse (Which I have literally seen a BRS do in the wild), and all for maybe a 15 gram weight penalty.
My Lighterpack only includes the clothes that will be in my pack, not the stuff I will be wearing. So, add a set of Outdoor Research Ferrosi shorts, an OR sun hoodie, a nylon belt, my Saucony trail runners (got them for a steal on clearance last year, and they are decent performers though I would prefer Hoka Speedgoats, and will probably buy them if I need a new pair on trail), a set of Injinji sock liners, a pair of Darn Tough Micro Crews, my Dirty Girl gaiters, and my Garmin Instinct 2 Solar watch. Oh, and a ball cap.
In my pack I’ll have a light half zip fleece which is my go-to midlayer 90% of the time which gets worn first for light rain, chilly mornings, chilly evenings, and any other time I need more than thin technical fabric. I’ll also have a Decathlon Forclaz hooded puffy for REALLY cold mornings and evenings (anything within spitting distance of freezing), a pair of OR Ferrosi pants, some short shorts for when I am too hot to think or want to go for a swim in Hutch’s Pool, a merino t-shirt for a backup top and extra underwear and socks. I’ll have a pair of very light merino gloves if I am desperate, but my hands usually run pretty hot.
I’m bringing raingear – OR Helium top and bottom just in case. They are very lightweight and not very durable, but if something sustained hits – especially wind and rain at the same time, I think I’ll be glad to have them. Better safe than sorry.
Breaking trail… an easy job on this segment! I believe this was heading into Saguaro National Park.
Electronics and Other Essentials
Finally, my Arizona Trail gear list includes electronics and a few other essentials to make desert hiking safer and more comfortable. I’ll be packing a GroPro 12, and hope to put together some trail videos. I will have a couple of attachments along with, including a headmount and a polemount. Packing a 20mAh Battery pack, and it should last as long as I need it to as I think the longest pull away from a potential recharge is 6 days. I have an extra battery for the GoPro too, so if I can avoid the need to top that up and just use the battery pack for my phone, that will be awesome.
Just a few other notables – I use a stick sunscreen – I find it less messy and chance of spilling. Got a Jereko Gear Stake/Spade driver from GearTrade in Calgary – it was handy on my last trip for driving stakes in the hard ground without resorting to smashing the stakes with rocks. Only caution – it is plastic, so if it is not used carefully it will break. I managed to get my hands on a teardrop thermometer – I like knowing how cold it really is in the microclimate. I have this handy cooling towel I got a couple of years ago at a fitness event on base – it is so light and quick drying I love bringing it. It can serve as a drying towel for a swim, a drying towel for condensation on the inside of the tent, and of course something to cool the neck on a hot day. Also packing a cork ball – I wanted something to massage feet and limbs with in case I inflame some tendons or something. You never know right?
This content was first published on The Trek on January 31, 2025.
Meet Oliver: A Canadian Hiker Taking on the Arizona Trail
Hello, TheTrek-Verse! I thought I would introduce myself to you tonight, and give you a little hint of what is to come from my keyboard(s) as I step off on this adventure of Thru-Hiking. My name’s Oliver (still waiting for a trail name), and I’m a 50 year old father, whose day job is in the Canadian Armed Forces. If that doesn’t put you off, read on!
It might be a little disingenuous to call it my first thru-hike, but the ones I have completed up to this point have been shorter – completable in a week or two. My longest hike to date was Section C of the Great Divide Trail, coming in around 200 kilometres or about 120 miles. So, taking on all of the Arizona Trail (800 miles) is a very exciting challenge.
Two grizzlies hanging out about 2km from the northern terminus of Section B on the GDT, summer of 2020.
From Bear Country to the Desert
Coming from Canada, hiking the desert is a refreshing change of pace. Hiking in Canada is primarily a summer activity, and most of the best hiking is in Bear Country, and when I say bears I mean BEARS. So coming south of the border to a place where bears and mountain lions are such a rarity that nobody even packs bear spray is definitely refreshing.
Not that there aren’t dangers in Arizona. Diamondbacks are no joke, and I kind of wish it were possible to pack antivenom because I hear search and rescue is very expensive in America. (CORRECTION: a reader advised me that Arizona has volunteer search and rescue teams that do not charge for service, so that’s a good thing! For the record I would not hesitate to call for aid regardless, I value my life and so does my family!)
And the desert landscape itself is a hazard. Planning your day around water sources, making sure you are protected from the big yellow ball of hate in the sky, these are definitely new challenges. But in the long tradition of Canadian Snowbirds, I am going to come south and enjoy the desert heat while my home eagerly awaits spring, which should arrive around the time I get off trail in May.
Why I’m Hiking the Arizona Trail
Why thru hike? Why now? My why has a lot to it, so watch for another post on my “Why” in a few weeks, but for now the busyness and disconnectedness of modern western civilization is soul crushing in my opinion. My job involves caring for people, and that costs mental and emotional energy. All of these things have added up to the point where I need to get away from everything, reconnect with nature, reconnect with my soul, and reconnect with God. Where better to do that than the desert wilderness? Mystics have a very ancient tradition of retreating to the wilderness for just such aims, from the 2nd century Desert Fathers to the monasteries of the Middle Ages.
Up until this point I have preferred hiking with others, both for safety reasons and because I just like people. But this time, this hike is not just about the miles I walk and the things I see, but also an internal journey to wellness. I need to be with me and find my strength not in other people, but deep inside. Hence, this journey.
My wife, Cheryl, South of Colossal Cave, March 2024 AZT Section Hike
A Taste of the Arizona Trail
I got a taste of the trail, both the good and the bad last spring with my wife. We hiked a section of trail from Vail (outside of Tucson) to about 11 miles north of Oracle. Unfortunately, at that point we ran into a nasty cloudburst that ripped the peg lines off two corners of our tent at 4am. After we retreated to the city to do repairs, we decided to just enjoy the state for the remainder of our two weeks. However, it did not leave my mind… and when the opportunity presented itself again for this year, It was my #1 choice. Unfinished business.
Looking Ahead to the Full Thru-Hike
I am looking forward to meeting people out on the trail, catching up again with some wonderful trail angels we met last spring, and seeing the parts of the state north of Phoenix. I am also looking forward to seeing what my body can really do, whether I can really crank the miles after I get my trail legs, and experience true “hiker hunger” where American size plates of food still aren’t enough! I am excited to get a “trail name” but most of all, I am looking forward to how the trail shapes me, and that I will be refreshed and ready for the next season. I hope you’ll follow along with my blog posts and my vlogs on Youtube! (Untaken Trails)
Stay tuned for a few more posts before my start date (March 26). I plan to write more on “my why” and my health journey in 2024, as well as some posts on how I am preparing for a thru-hike while living in the frozen hinterlands of Labrador. Who knows what else I’ll start talking about! See you soon!
This article was first published on The Trek on February 2, 2025.
Getting Back Into Shape Before the Arizona Trail
It is super true what they say about how people my age feel like they are 20 inside… until they do something physical with a 20 year old… then they KNOW they are no longer 20! That’s definitely the thru-hiker world! Lots of 20 somethings on the trail, mountain goating, hiking into the night, up at the crack of dawn, and drinking their faces off in every trail town. I won’t be one of them.
Dawn half marathon training run by the shores of Cold Lake, April 2021
Staying in shape has been a challenge to me at the best of times – if I am honest, I prioritized my kids over my own health for much of the last 20 years. Thankfully, back in 2010 I began to focus on my cardio, and started doing running training for 5, then 10k, then half marathons. But every year it was the same – start whipping myself into shape from January, get to the summer, take advantage of a reasonable amount of fitness until September then give it all up and become a slug until January again. And when I say a reasonable amount of fitness, I mean lose about 10 pounds but still be a good 20 lbs overweight.
However, I am the kind of person that works well with a goal. A thru-hike will be the most physically demanding thing I have ever done over 45-50 days in my life… outside of basic training (which I did at the tender age of 40 by the way…)! With my eyes on a flight date, March 25 2025, I am determined to prepare more carefully for this than for pretty much anything else I have ever done – including the half marathons I have run!
Building a Training Plan for the Arizona Trail
Now, I do have one advantage over many prospective thru-hikers. Because I am in the military, we have fitness instructors to consult, and they have helped me customize something to prepare me for the rigors of the trail. They have me doing a bunch of strengthening exercises for those small muscles in my lower body that get taxed on irregular ground like trails, for stability and to keep my footing. The last thing I want is a twisted ankle or knee to take me off trail!
For my big muscles, I have decided to focus on just increasing my walking, and as I get closer to the start I will be adding in a weight vest to simulate the backpack. I don’t want to use my actual backpack because where I live the temperature varies from 32F down to -30F. I don’t want to risk a plastic buckle cracking in the cold or the fabric of the pack getting compromised because of the cold, or any of the gear I throw inside for ballast.
Who’s a handsome boy? Watson, that’s who!
In January I planned to walk a minimum of 10 thousand steps per day. That will be a little over an hour a day of walking. I have a trusty sidekick to motivate me named Watson, and he doesn’t care how cold it is either – he has a double coat and is happy as a clam in any weather. Come February I plan to ramp up to a floor of 15 thousand steps per day, which should be about an hour and a half of walking per day. Then in March, I’ll move up the floor to 20 thousand steps per day which will definitely require more than 2 hours per day walking. I hope by then the sunrise will be earlier and I’ll be able to get most of those steps in before the kids go to school so it doesn’t take over my day.
Training for the Arizona Trail in the Canadian Winter
Depending on the amount of snow we get I may shift over to snowshoeing. If I do, my total steps expectation will drop but my time goal will remain the same – snowshoeing is definitely higher intensity than walking! Preparing for a thru hike outdoors in the dead of winter is definitely giving me an excuse to put to use everything I know about layering and frostbite protection. Not to mention teaching me about perseverance!
And the last element will be getting some vertical in. Most of my local walking trails are fairly flat, but one: Dome Mountain! The site of an old radar station, if I hike up the access road to the top it’s about 6 miles return, with a gain of about 850 feet. I hope to start doing that once a week, moving to a double go in March (up, down, then up and down again) once a week. My hope is with all of this prep, the trail won’t be quite as shocking as if I went in cold… I’ll already be going in “cold”, but cold and unprepared? I plan to be ready for 15-20 mile days once I reach Patagonia, and to be pushing 25s when I reach the vicinity of Pine. If I can do that or better I will finish on time!
January Training Results
So, how did I do in January? Seeing as how it ended just a few days ago…
The beginning of January I took a week or so to work on healthy relationships, taking a flight out to see my family and old friends out west. Unfortunately, that trip proved disruptive to my goals – I only met that step goal twice in those 9 days.
It’s chilly at the top of Dome Mountain.
On the bright side though, on my return, my trusty sidekick Watson and I built some solid pattern in January the rest of the time! My average steps per day over the month was in excess of 10 thousand, in spite of the lull. And we did Dome Mountain three times. The last time we added in an extra mile and a half before and after, doing about 8 or 9 miles along with the elevation profile. The snow on the road was fairly even due to snowmobile traffic, and the fact we haven’t had any major dumps of fresh snow.
I have also been able to add in some work at the gym, working on strength and stability of feet, ankles and knees, as well as some “Jacob’s Ladder” and the stairclimbing machine. The treadmills have been helpful, as they have variable inclines, so I can get some more glute work in.
No sidewalks in the winter, only roadwalking…
The best part of all of this additional training is it has fit into less than 2 hours per day. I typically do an hour in the morning, just after the kids go to school, and an hour after they return. With the late sunrise (around 8am) and early sunset (around 4pm) this is safest, so I don’t have to worry about reflective vests. We don’t have plowed trails, so all our walking is on roads!
It hasn’t all been wine and roses. I have been watching carefully for signs of wear – blisters, chafing, etc. I have had some achiness on the back of my right heel, but it seems to have largely resolved itself. I have also had what feels like a puffy spot on the ball of my left foot, that gets a little achey and sensitive, but when I walk on it, there is no pain. I thought it might just be some inflammation, so after my big push up Dome early last Saturday morning, I resolved to take “36 hours” off. I put off my 10k steps on Sunday until the evening, giving me all day Saturday, all night, then all day Sunday as rest. It seems to have worked and I kept up my streak!
Lessons Learned and Motivation for Fellow Hikers
As the days get longer I plan to move my morning hour to before the kids go to school and more into the supper hours, to leave more time with family. I hope that this is an encouragement to anyone who is trying to figure out how to make time to train for a thru-hike whilst still doing “normal” life. You can do it!
More From This Series
Preparing for an Arizona Trail (AZT) Thru-Hike at 50 – January Results (You’re here)
About the Central Trail at Riding Mountain National Park
We were on the hunt for one last hike of 2025 and landed on Riding Mountain National Park. With four days available for hiking, we explored our options and found a combination of campgrounds that would allow us to hike all four days.
Riding Mountain National Park was established back in 1933 and was Manitoba’s first national park. It’s a pretty special place with a mix of forests, open meadows, and lakes that make it feel really varied and peaceful. You can see all kinds of wildlife here, including moose, elk, black bears, deer, and even foxes if you’re lucky. Birdwatchers have a lot to look for too, with over 200 species spotted in the park. Hiking through it is really enjoyable. There is something about the combination of quiet forests, open spaces, and sparkling lakes that makes it feel like a proper escape into nature.
The park offers a mix of day hikes as well as multi-day routes that can be planned end-to-end, as loops, or out-and-back. The loops were too short for what we wanted, and being limited to a single vehicle ruled out the end-to-end hikes. We chose an out-and-back route with a loop at the end that allowed us to stay at three different campgrounds while only repeating the middle section of the trail.
There are other trails in Riding Mountain National Park that interest us for future weekend hikes, such as the East Escarpment and Grey Owl’s Cabin. We’ll save those for next year. For this hike, our route was:
Day 1: Central Trailhead to Whitewater Lake Campground
Day 2: Whitewater Lake to Gunn Lake Campground
Day 3: Gunn Lake Campground back toward Whitewater Lake and down to Long Lake
Day 4: Long Lake through the Grasshopper Lake Trail, up to Central Trail, and back to the Central Trail Trailhead
Since this was our first year hiking in the area, we weren’t sure how busy the trails could be. Backcountry sites in Riding Mountain National Park do require reservations, but we had plenty of options available in the reservation system. Conditions may differ during peak season, so plan ahead and make your reservations early to secure the sites you want.
Day 1: Central Trailhead to Whitewater Lake
Wasagaming Townsite
We drove up to Wasagaming Campground on Thursday evening, planning to start the trail on Friday morning. The frontcountry campsite had all the amenities we could want, including flush toilets and showers. The downside was the time of year we visited. Some sites had already closed for the season, and even the closest outhouse to our campground loop was no longer available, which meant a longer walk to the restroom at night.
Another downside is that when you enjoy the quiet of backcountry camping, it can be tough to start your trip surrounded by the noise of vehicles arriving late, car alarms, and music from distant campsites. Fortunately, we knew we would be in the backcountry soon enough, and most people had quieted down before midnight. Staying at the campground saved money, since hotels aren’t cheap, and it put us in a good position to drive 40 minutes to the trailhead in the morning. From Winnipeg, the drive to the Central Trail Trailhead takes about three hours.
On Friday morning, we went into the townsite in search of breakfast. We wanted some good fuel before hitting the trail. Being later in the season, some locations had already closed for the year, and those that were open tended to open later in the morning. One exception was The Boardwalk on Clear Lake. We were pleasantly surprised by this little store, restaurant, and ice cream shop. While waiting for our orders of breakfast mash, Cheryl bought a new hat to wear on the trail. Our meals were ready quickly and were delicious. If you are looking for a place for breakfast before hiking, we would recommend The Boardwalk. You might also be tempted by a few baked goodies while you’re there.
Bison Enclosure
Bison were hanging out in their enclosure close to the road near the Central Trail.
The nice thing about starting our hike on the Central Trail at the Central Trail Trailhead is its proximity to the bison enclosure. You could skip the enclosure and drive a little further from Audy Lake to reach the turnoff to the trail, but why not drive through the bison enclosure and see the bison first? Turn off at the enclosure and drive through. Along the way, you will reach a T-intersection. Turning right will take you back toward Wasagaming, while turning left leads to the bison viewing platform. The Central Trail Trailhead is just a little past the platform up another dirt road.
When we entered the enclosure, we weren’t sure if we would see any bison at all. We drove through open fields and winding trees before finally spotting them over a distant hill. Turning left at the T-intersection brought us right to them, with bison on both sides of the dirt road. We parked for a while, taking pictures and video before heading to the viewpoint. There is an outhouse here as well if you want to use the facilities. Take a moment to get out of your car, stretch your legs, and check out the bison from the platform.
A tip: don’t do what we did and go back the way you came from the platform, which takes you back to the T-intersection. Instead, follow the road around the platform to reach the trailhead.
Bison viewing tip: We recommend visiting the bison in the morning when you start the trail. In the afternoon, they are more likely to be resting in the shade of the trees, out of sight, especially if you try to view them after you exit the trail.
Central Trail Parking Lot and Trailhead
Central Trail Trailhead and the start of Central Trail and Strathclair Trail.
While it was still early morning when we drove to the Central Trail, the dirt road leading up to the trailhead was lined with sunbathing snakes. Unfortunately, some of these snakes had not survived encounters with vehicles that had passed through. We did our best to dodge them on the single-lane road. Hopefully, most of them made it through the morning sun safely.
The Central Trail Trailhead has two small dirt parking lots that can each fit about three to four cars. We had no trouble finding parking, but during peak season, it could be a challenge if you are competing with day hikers. Time your arrival accordingly.
This trailhead also serves as the parking lot for the Strathclair Trail. When we arrived, we saw cyclists heading out for a ride. The Strathclair Trail also has campgrounds, but it is best done with two vehicles for an end-to-end hike. Like the Central Trail, you can do an out-and-back hike, choosing how far you want to go before turning around. Unlike our route on the Central Trail, it does not offer loop options like the Grasshopper Valley section we planned.
At the parking lot, you will find a garbage can for any last-minute trash you don’t want to leave in your car. There is also a green throne toilet down a short path at the turnaround loop. Keep in mind that there are no doors, so use the hiker signal of trekking poles in the path, make some noise, or have a friend stand guard during busy season. When we arrived, there was toilet paper in a mailbox attached to a post by the toilet, but the supply was limited by the time we were leaving. Always bring your own on the trail just in case.
Toward Whitewater Lake
The Central Trail is wide, well-maintained and easy to follow with clear signage.
Following the Central Trail to Whitewater Lake is about 10.4 kilometers. There is roughly a hundred meters to the Strathclair Trail fork from the trailhead and another hundred meters from the Central Trail down the approach to Whitewater Lake. A sign along the way will indicate the distance to the next turnoff, but it doesn’t always show the final distance to your destination.
We found the trail very easy. Riding Mountain National Park’s map also labels it as easy, and we agree. The trail is mostly flat, with just a couple of small hills near the end. There was one downed tree that hadn’t been cleared yet. Oliver chose to go around it, while Cheryl climbed through. Both options worked fine.
The ground had no tripping hazards, unless you count your own feet or the wagon and tire tracks. There were a few gravel sections, but most of the trail was grass-covered with some patches of mud. Horse droppings were more common than bear scat along the way.
We noticed signs of prescribed burns and other trail maintenance, which made it clear that the park takes its time to keep the area healthy and safe for visitors. We were happy to see their efforts.
While the trail doesn’t reach any high points, there are glimpses of meadows where wildlife can sometimes be spotted. We like to make noise on the trail to avoid surprising bears, so we didn’t see much wildlife—except for grouse, which don’t seem to mind you sneaking up on them, even when you give them plenty of warning.
We made quick work of the trail and arrived at Whitewater Lake in time for lunch. The signage made it easy to spot where we would be hiking on the return trip and where we would be heading the following day.
Whitewater Lake Campsite
Plenty of space for tents at Whitewater Lake Campground.
Approximately 100 meters off the Central Trail is Whitewater Lake Campground. As you enter, you’ll see a hitching post corral for horses and a register box with a log book. When we reserved our campsite, there were no other guests booked, so we knew we would have the place to ourselves. From reading the log book, it looked like there were usually one or two groups at the site, so it’s not overused.
Whitewater Lake Campground is built on the site of an old World War II POW camp. There are a couple of signs at the campground which explain the history as well as a hand crank to power up some educational audio recordings. We appreciated having the opportunity to explore some of the history of the area while we were there.
The campground is fairly open. When reserving, we recommend selecting site 1, as you can pitch a tent under the tree for shade. Site 2 has potential if they were to clean up behind the site marker, allowing a tent to be pitched closer to the trees, but as it was when we visited, tents could only be set up in the open field with no shade. Site 3 might look sunny at first, but the trees behind it do a decent job of blocking the sun. Our recommendation is to choose site 1 first, then site 3.
The bear lockers were in excellent condition with no signs of mice. We were happy to have a secure place to store our food. On this trip, we brought food bags instead of bear canisters since lockers were available. Our only concern was small gaps where a mouse might squeeze in, but the locks kept the lids sealed and we had no issues.
While Cheryl pitched the tent, Oliver went for a 5-kilometer run back along Central Trail. Since he was now familiar with the stretch from Whitewater Lake to the Long Lake connector, he ran from the water pump to the turnoff about 2.1 kilometers away and then turned around. The hills on the return to camp were a bit more challenging the second time through.
With the hike over for the day and Oliver’s run completed, it was time to relax around camp and search for the lake.
Evening in Camp
We put in a good effort to find the creek canoe access that was used when the site was a POW camp. We went behind the water pump and bushwhacked through the trees until we came out along the winding creek. There were many tussocks along the edge, which made walking challenging. We had planned to follow the creek until we reached the lake, but we quickly realized just how far away it was and how uneven the terrain would be. We had no interest in twisting an ankle.
Instead, we made our way back through the trees and studied the map to see if there was another way to the lake. Log reports mentioned a lot of swamp, which we had hoped to avoid, and it soon became clear how difficult the trek would be. We called off our attempt and instead strolled around the site, searching for remnants of the past. You can find scraps from an old power building and the foundation of another structure near the water pump. A few old pipes stick out of the ground here and there if you take a wander through the grass.
As we sat by a fire, we watched geese fly overhead and listened to the bugling of elk. Eventually, coyotes started yapping, and later, even wolves could be heard howling. While we couldn’t see much wildlife, we could hear it all around us. We watched the sunset and, after dousing the last of the flames, climbed into the tent.
The sounds carried on through the night. At one point, Cheryl heard something cracking in the trees, which she figured was probably a deer. There was also the sound of rocks clanging together, likely from the creekbed that ran along one side of the field. A deer probably dislodged a few stones while climbing up. Otherwise, it was a quiet, uneventful evening—the kind of night we like best.
Central Trail Conditions and Scenery
We found the first day on Central Trail to be very easy. There was one downed tree on the trail that hadn’t been cleared yet, but otherwise the grass was mowed and the path was clear. There were some tire rivets along the trail, though we couldn’t tell if they came from maintenance vehicles or the wagons used for horse-and-wagon rides that go through the area.
This trail connects to other day hikes and campgrounds along the way, such as Grasshopper Valley to the end of Lake Audy or the Minnedosa River Campground. If you are looking for a short hike to a backcountry campground with your family, Minnedosa is a simple option, with only the final approach being slightly uneven in places. We discovered this campground on our final day as we hiked back to the trailhead.
There are a few short hills about seven kilometers into the trail, but none of them were strenuous. Unless you take one of the connector trails, you shouldn’t have any trouble following the route. Central Trail is wide and mostly mowed grass, and you only need to turn off when reaching a connector trail or the turnoff to your destination. Each turn is clearly marked with signs showing the distance.
At times, the trail feels like a tunnel through the trees. Since we hiked in the fall, the changing colors of the leaves made it especially enjoyable. Fireweed and other plants added variety along the path. Keep an eye on the sides of the trail for open meadows and other breaks in the trees—they offer moments of charm. Also, watch for grouse, which have a knack for giving you a surprise.
Whitewater Lake Campground Amenities and Tips
Water Pump: Some logbook comments mention that the water pump can be difficult to locate when the grass isn’t maintained. To be helpful, we documented its location in our video. Basically, stand behind the firewood shelter and face the small aspen to the right of the World War II signs. Stay between a few short aspens and head toward the cluster of trees down a slight decline. The pump will be near the trees, close to a small remnant of an old building foundation.
Outhouse: The outhouse at Whitewater Lake was in decent condition. Tucked away in the trees near the campground, it had adequate toilet paper. It made some creaking noises in the wind, but it wasn’t going anywhere.
Firewood: For the end of September, the firewood pile was well stocked. We were able to enjoy a nice fire that evening without putting a dent in the pile.
Bear Lockers: Whitewater Lake had good bear lockers located a reasonable distance from the campsite. We’re used to lockers being even further away, but this distance was fine. They were solid, with no signs of mouse entry.
Final Thoughts on Central Trail Trailhead to Whitewater Lake – Day 1
Our first day on the Central Trail was a gentle introduction to Riding Mountain National Park. The trail itself was very easy, with mostly flat, mowed grass and just a few short hills near the end. With clear signage and wide paths, it was simple to follow, and the fall colours added a beautiful touch along the way. Even though we didn’t see any wildlife on the trail itself, the occasional grouse and glimpses of meadows reminded us that the park is alive with activity.
Whitewater Lake Campground was a perfect spot to end the day. The campground is open, peaceful, and well-maintained, with good bear lockers and a couple of shaded tenting options. We enjoyed exploring the remnants of the old POW camp, wandering along the creek, and taking in the sights and sounds of nature. The bugling of elk, the calls of coyotes, and even distant wolf howls made for a memorable evening, proving that you don’t need to see wildlife to experience it fully.
Overall, the first day was a great mix of easy hiking, historical exploration, and peaceful backcountry camping. It set the tone for the rest of our trip and reminded us why Riding Mountain National Park is such a special place for both first-time visitors and experienced hikers. With well-marked trails, good terrain, and opportunities to enjoy the sights and sounds of nature, it’s a hike that feels accessible while still offering a true sense of adventure.
Day 1 Summary
Date: September 26, 2025
Distance: Central Trail Trailhead to Whitewater Lake – 10.4 km / 6.4 mi
Elevation: 213 ft
Amenities:
Central Trailhead: Green throne toilet, garbage can, trail maps, parking.
Water Sources: No water source at trailhead, water pump at Whitewater Lake Campground. No lake access.
Wildlife: Bison enclosure near trailhead, deer tracks, beaver dams, elk bugling, wolves and coyotes howling at night and some bear scat.
Navigation: Wide, mowed trail with clear signage showing distances to the parking lot and next cabin
Best Time to Hike: Spring (before ticks) or fall (after ticks). We heard the ticks at Riding Mountain National Park are very bad when the grass hasn’t been mowed.
WATCH THE VIDEO FROM RIDING MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK: CENTRAL TRAIL TO WHITEWATER LAKE – DAY 1
More From This Hike:
• Hiking Riding Mountain National Park: Central Trail to Whitewater Lake | Day 1 (You’re here!) • More coming soon!
Night two on the Epinette Creek Trail in Spruce Woods Provincial Park was calm. Unlike the first night, we weren’t bothered by mice on the guylines, and the forest sounds were limited to the usual chatter and the occasional snapping of twigs in the distance. We convinced ourselves that the noises were just deer passing through, while coyotes howled far off, hunting in the dark.
Watson was completely unconcerned. He snuggled up against Cheryl in their tent and even rolled onto his back with his paws in the air.
We felt happy—and lucky—to have such a restful, quiet evening. A couple of weeks later, on our hike at Riding Mountain National Park, we ran into another hiker who told us about his experience at this exact campsite in April or May. He had hiked along and camped where we had pitched our tents. That evening, he spotted a juvenile black bear leaning on a tree near his tent. When he tried to scare it off, a second bear, likely the mother, appeared. He ended up in a tense standoff for several minutes before retreating into the cabin without his gear. Later, with a small tea light candle from the cabin for light, he tried to retrieve his sleeping bag from his now collapsed tent, but momma bear came crashing out of the woods again. Luckily, he managed to alert his wife despite limited signal, and a park ranger picked him up at 2:30 a.m.
Seeing the bear scat on our September hike and hearing this story made it clear: bear spray is essential Epinette Creek Trail in Spruce Woods Provincial Park, even if it doesn’t seem necessary at first.
Takeaway tip: Always carry bear spray in Spruce Woods Provincial Park and know how to use it—wildlife encounters can happen even at seemingly quiet campsites.
Day 3: Cabin 4 Jackfish Lake to Epinette Creek Trailhead, Spruce Woods Provincial Park
Leaving Cabin 4 on the Newfoundland Loop South
As we prepared to leave Cabin 4, we noticed a shortcut behind the cabin that at least one other hiking parties had taken. From what we could tell, it was a steeper climb and not well maintained. While it might save time for some, we encourage hikers to stick to the clearly marked trail.
We chose the stone-covered hill, following the official route—not because the shortcut is dangerous, but because the marked trail is easier to navigate, better maintained, and staying on the trail also ensures you don’t unintentionally damage surrounding vegetation. Plus, by taking the marked path, we were able to capture the full experience for our YouTube viewers, showing exactly what the trail has to offer and highlighting the route everyone should follow for a safe and enjoyable hike. Choosing the well-marked trail isn’t just about safety—it’s about respecting the land, the trail, and future hiking experiences.
South on the Newfoundland Loop
We were surprised by the number of oak trees in Spruce Woods Provincial Park.
From the top of the hill, the trail splits and gives you the choice of following either the north or south loop. Like the northern half, the southern portion is rolling with plenty of ups and downs. It is not overly strenuous, but it is definitely less flat than the earlier loops of the Epinette Creek Trail.
The terrain here felt different as well. The south loop included several sandy stretches, with a couple of large sandy hills that would be tough for any maintenance vehicles, especially on a wet day. These were not sand dunes, but the inclines were steep enough that tires would have little to grip without the stones the park has placed for traction. As hikers, we actually enjoyed the sandy sections. It was a nice change from the usual soil, and we were grateful the trail was not muddy during our visit.
Another unique feature of this loop was the number of oak trees. While we had spotted a few earlier in the hike, the south loop had noticeably more. Cheryl even wondered if some of them had been intentionally planted. Just before Cabin 3, we entered an open area that looked as though it might once have been a homestead. An old abandoned car sat off to the side, oak trees lined the trail, and we crossed an infrequently used dirt road. Seeing so many oak trees in this part of the park felt unusual and memorable, and it added character to this stretch of trail.
An old abandoned car near an oak tree on Epinette Creek Trail.
A Short Break at Cabin 3
When we reached Cabin 3, we took a break. It was time to load up on more water and have some snacks. We had access to the outhouse and of course the garbage cans and took advantage of the amenities. There was no one there. Anyone we had stayed with previously had moved on and we could stretch out on picnic tables and on the water pump platform, dryihg out our dew-soaked socks and soothing aching muscles.
We knew we only had about 8 km left to hike before reaching the trailhead and that if the next half of the loop was the same as our approach from the trailhead on day one, it would be an easy go. We made sure Watson was well rested and got plenty of water and then we set off on the home stretch.
Onward to the Trailhead
We took a break on a hill to catch a light breeze.
While the scenery on this half of the trail was about the same, with open grass and prairie mixed with tree tunnels, we were likely feeling a bit more fatigued after already completing 13 km of hiking. The stretch to Cabin 2 felt hillier than day one, and there was one good hill climb that reminded us Manitoba isn’t completely flat.
The temperatures were rising, and we were in an open stretch, so it was time for another break. We always try to find the most scenic places on a trail to stop. When hiking, the views are a great reward and something you work hard for. On this trail, however, “views” had a different meaning. We were looking for a nice creek weaving through the trees or a field that stretched out for a while. Views are those locations where your eyes move from one point of interest to another. We found a spot that looked out over the grassy prairie outlined by trees. It might not have been a significant viewpoint for some, but we appreciated watching the grasses sway and the many colours of the leaves.
After our break, we finished the walk to Cabin 2. Because there were benches, we took another short rest. Why not? There was no rush. We knew we were only a short distance from the parking lot, and sometimes we’re just not ready for a hike to be over.
Arriving at the Trailhead
When we spotted the car, we were pleased to see the end of the trail. We always feel happy when we see our car. The last thing you want after finishing a hike is to discover your vehicle is missing. We told Watson it was time for a car ride, and even he seemed pleased by the announcement.
At the trailhead, we saw the teenagers from the school group taking photographs together. Oliver offered to help take their group photo so the chaperones could also be in the shot. It was nice to reconnect with them one last time before we all went home. We also learned that a lost cell phone had been recovered. They had dropped it somewhere between Cabin 2 and the parking lot, then backtracked and found it on the ground. It served as a reminder that you can lose something at any time on the trail, even when you’re close to the end.
As Oliver changed into fresh clothes, Cheryl sat with Watson in the open trunk of the car. Watson proudly looked out at the parking lot, happy to be on his blanket and excited for another car ride adventure. He’s always up for anything.
Driving Home
The drive home took about two hours, plus a stop in Portage la Prairie where we each grabbed a hamburger. Watson scored some fries. Because Spruce Woods Provincial Park isn’t too far away, we were able to get home at a decent time to clean up our gear and enjoy a relaxing evening. Sometimes, trails can be a long drive away, and after a full day of hiking and then driving, you end up exhausted before you even reach home. If you plan to do the full 20+ km hike on the Epinette Creek Trail and you’re not a slow hiker, you can expect to be back in Winnipeg by the afternoon, which is a good time to arrive and start planning your next hike in Spruce Woods Provincial Park.
Newfoundland Loop Conditions and Scenery
This section of the trail is approximately 13.5 km. Although signage may read 11.7 km, the distance is longer from Cabin 3 because of the connector trail to the loop split. You will see a sign indicating about 2 km left when your Garmin shows 11.7 km. Be prepared for slightly longer mileage.
As mentioned, there are no water sources after leaving Cabin 3 until Cabin 4. Carry enough water on hot days, as there are no streams or creeks along this section.
This section has more rolling hills than other loops. Besides the stone-covered hill after Cabin 3, the hills are gentle but consistent. Uneven areas come from clumpy grass, cleared downfall, or tracks left by maintenance vehicles. The trail is mostly hazard-free.
While Epinette Creek Trail in Spruce Woods Provincial Park does not offer sweeping vistas, the prairies and colorful fall leaves create a beautiful scene. The trail passes through different landscapes, from tree tunnels to open fields, with mushrooms and flowers scattered along the way.
Final Thoughts on Epinette Creek Trail, Spruce Woods Provincial Park – Day 3
Day 3 on the Epinette Creek Trail had more hills than Days 1 or 2. Doing the full length from Cabin 4 to the trailhead meant we were combining the portions of the loops that we had not yet completed when hiking in.
For beginner hikers, we would recommend breaking up the 20 km day into two shorter days by stopping at Cabin 3 before hiking out the rest of the way. Another option is to start early and take your time. If you begin in the morning, you have all day to reach your car. It is not a strenuous hike; it is simply long. If you are not used to doing 20 km days, remember that you have that option. Once you reach Cabin 2, just keep going. You are almost there.
While we had no issues with animals on the trail, knowing what we know now, we would advise bringing bear spray just in case. The trail maintainers keep the trail in fantastic shape with wide paths. Do watch for scraps of wood, as you could trip on a stick or loose piece that might roll your ankle. Other than that, the trail is excellent and easy to navigate. As long as you know which cabin number you are targeting, you will have no problem reaching your destination.
We truly appreciated having the amenities of toilets, water pumps, and firepits. The garbage and recycling bins were a luxury. Who would have thought people would be so excited to see garbage cans? When you are used to packing out your trash all the time, having a place to dump smelly scraps on a hot day and not have them bake inside a plastic bag in your bear canister feels like a treat. You will appreciate a garbage can in the backcountry too.
The only downside is that there are no bear boxes. We made use of the cabins to store our food at night. Since we used bear vaults, we could have left our canisters outside a safe distance from camp, but not having to worry about bears knocking them around at night or searching for them in the morning if they were moved made the cabins a much nicer option. If you plan to store your food in the cabins, remember that they are home to mice. You may want to use a mouse-proof container to make sure your food does not get munched on overnight. I hope that in the future they install bear boxes at these sites. That is the only thing missing.
Day 3 Summary
Date: September 14, 2025
Distance: Cabin 4 (Jackfish Lake) to Trailhead – ~20 km / 12.6 mi
Elevation: 1650 ft
Water Sources: Only available at cabin water pumps and beaver dam creek after Cabin 2.
Wildlife: Deer tracks and plentiful bear scat.
Navigation: Wide, mowed trail with clear signage.
Best Time to Hike: Spring (before ticks) or fall (after ticks)
We were very pleased by how quiet the teenagers were that we shared the campground with. After retreating to our tents for the night, they stayed by the fire with their chaperones and cleaned up after a late dinner. The only issue was the water pump. We were camped near it, and in order for them to clean up, they had to pump it. It was noisy, but Cheryl had a solution: earplugs. With them in, she had no complaints. The teenagers kept their voices down when walking past our tents and took care of their evening responsibilities.
I cannot say the same about the mouse that decided to visit Cheryl’s tent that night. With her earplugs out, she woke to the sound of something hitting the tent. Watson lifted his head, alert but calm. A dog not growling is a good sign, so there was no need to worry. Still, seeing bear scat just a few feet from our tent reminded us that wildlife was nearby, even if the scat was a few days old.
Cheryl lay there a while, listening to the mouse climb a guyline, fall, hit the side of the tent, and slide down to the grass. Watson followed its movements with his eyes. The mouse seemed to prefer the empty side of the tent rather than the vestibule with her backpack. She was not interested in finding a hole chewed into the bag or straps destroyed.
Once Cheryl reassured Watson everything was fine, they ignored the mouse and fell back asleep. By morning, it was gone, leaving no damage behind.
Day 2: Cabin 3 to Cabin 4 Jackfish Lake via Newfoundland Loop
Leaving Cabin 3 on the Newfoundland Loop
Epinette Creek Trail is well signed, and with the mowed grass, you will not get lost. There is a sign to the Newfoundland Loop by the cabin showing the distance if you follow the north or south sections. We chose the longer north route on Day 2 because our plan was to hike from Jackfish Lake to the trailhead on Day 3. Shortening the distance on the final day, which would have been over 20 km, seemed like a wise decision.
We packed up while the campground was starting to stir and learned about a shortcut to the trail behind the picnic tables on the hill near the water pump. Rather than walk by another tent with a dog, we took the shortcut. We were quickly on the trail and began the north loop.
North on the Newfoundland Loop
One thing you notice about the Epinette Creek Trail is the signage. There is a “Do Not Enter” sign in one direction and a distance marker in the other. This is because the trails are also used in winter, and the directional signs help prevent collisions and keep trails in good condition. We happened to be going in the same direction as the signs, so we continued without issue. If you were trying to follow the south route, the signage could be a little confusing.
The trail was as wide and well-groomed as the previous loops. To our right, there was a large open area where we could see the south loop before the trails eventually separated.
We had been told about a hill with rocks on the north side, and they were right. The rocks were smooth stones, not jagged rocks embedded in dirt. It seemed as though a truck had dumped the rocks to make a road accessible for maintenance vehicles. The ground in this area was sandy, which would make it challenging for vehicles if the trail was wet.
The trail crossed a few dirt backcountry roads that saw little use. We were unsure if these were quad trails or maintenance roads. We stayed on the groomed trail, keeping straight unless a sign directed otherwise.
There are a few short hills on the Newfoundland Loop.
The Newfoundland Loop had more rolling hills than the other loops. The scenery changed frequently, sometimes reminding us of the Thompson Valley in British Columbia with grasses and unusual trees, then shifting to aspen forests or spruce-lined paths. There was always something new to look at, and the fall colors were bright.
A Short Break
Although our Garmin watches later reported otherwise, it became very hot at one point, so we took a break in the shade for lunch. Watson had water from his collapsible bowl and a small meal from his pack. There are no water sources along this section of the trail. Previously, we had crossed the beaver dam creek, and the cabins with their water pumps were relatively close.
Covering approximately 13.5 km with a dog and limited water meant we had to be mindful of consumption to make sure Watson had enough. We decided to carry extra for the hike out to ensure neither of us needed to ration.
Watson having a well-deserved rest.
We strongly advise hikers with dogs to pack plenty of water for the Newfoundland Loop when hiking in warmer temperatures. Your dog will thank you.
Hiking Apart on the Newfoundland Loop
This hike was also an opportunity for Cheryl to do a semi-solo hike. We brought radios to communicate, and for the final six kilometers, Cheryl hiked alone while Oliver stayed behind with Watson. This gave her the chance to get comfortable hiking a good distance apart from the group.
A couple of grouse tried to derail the plans, hiding in the brush beside the trail until Cheryl was very close. Just as she passed, they would suddenly explode into flight. The sound of their wings is startling at first because it mimics a larger animal charging through the forest, which is an effective deterrent for predators. It can make a hiker jump if you are not expecting it, especially in a quiet forest when you think you might have disturbed a bear. After an initial scare, Cheryl quickly realized it was just a grouse and continued on.
This happened multiple times along the trail. Each time, the grouse would wait silently in the underbrush and then take off at the last moment. Cheryl found it both amusing and slightly frustrating as she had to pause each time and shout at the noise, before recognizing its source.
Other than the grouse, the hike alone was uneventful. Despite the brief surprises, the trail remained peaceful, and the semi-solo hike gave her confidence in hiking independently while staying in touch over the radio.
Arriving at Cabin 4
The final approach to Cabin 4 included a gate to prevent vehicles and a stone-covered hill descending toward the last kilometer. The path led to an open area with picnic tables, and to the left were cabin amenities, including an outhouse, water pump, and firepits.
As the first to arrive, we pitched our tents under trees, which was ideal. There could have easily been space for a third tent. The campground had plenty of room, so anyone arriving later would have had a spot to pitch a tent.
We enjoyed a relaxing afternoon after the longer hike, hydrating and resting. After dinner, we put our bear canisters in the cabin like at Cabin 3. With chores done, we could relax until bedtime. Watson had a good snooze on the ground, cooling himself before other hikers arrived.
Evening in Camp
Oliver started a campfire in the firepit, and we had a great evening connecting with the other hikers. Conversation ranged from hiking trails to gear choices, and it was enjoyable to share experiences. Two additional hiking parties had chosen the Epinette Creek Trail because the Mantario Trail was closed due to the summer forest fires. We enjoyed hearing about the Mantario Trail from those who had hiked it before and learned what to expect when it reopens.
The discussion shifted to gear. We compared Durston tents, including two we had and one from another hiking party that was brand new. Chair comfort and weight were debated, and we discussed hiking quilts versus sleeping bags. Tarp tents and water-carrying strategies all came up. It was helpful to hear the perspectives of others and see what gear choices worked best for different hiking styles.
The rain, which had lightly sprinkled over dinner, eventually increased, ending our campfire conversation for the night. Everyone retreated to their tents, but it was still rewarding to be part of a small community of hikers. Sharing stories, learning tips, and swapping experiences made the evening a memorable part of the hike.
Newfoundland Loop Conditions and Scenery
This section of the trail is approximately 13.5 km. Although signage may read 11.7 km, the distance is longer from Cabin 3 because of the connector trail to the loop split. You will see a sign indicating about 2 km left when your Garmin shows 11.7 km. Be prepared for slightly longer mileage.
As mentioned, there are no water sources after leaving Cabin 3 until Cabin 4. Carry enough water on hot days, as there are no streams or creeks along this section.
This section has more rolling hills than other loops. Besides the stone-covered hill after Cabin 3, the hills are gentle but consistent. Uneven areas come from clumpy grass, cleared downfall, or tracks left by maintenance vehicles. The trail is mostly hazard-free.
While Epinette Creek Trail does not offer sweeping vistas, the prairies and colorful fall leaves create a beautiful scene. The trail passes through different landscapes, from tree tunnels to open fields, with mushrooms and flowers scattered along the way.
Cabin Amenities and Tips
Water: The pump at Cabin 4 was not as noisy as Cabin 3. We’d still recommend getting water the evening before to minimize the impact on others.
Outhouses: There was hand sanitizer at Cabin 4’s outhouse and there was less odour, most likely because this outhouse saw less use than the others due to the distance.
Firewood: There was still lots of firewood at Cabin 4 in September.
Final Thoughts on Epinette Creek Trail – Day 2
Day 2 on the Epinette Creek Trail had more hills than Day 1. The distance between cabins was longer, which meant we needed to carry enough water to last until reaching Cabin 4.
Even though we were hiking a longer distance on Day 2, the trail was easy, and we arrived at camp early. This gave us a relaxing afternoon to sit back and do nothing. While Jackfish Lake is accessible, it is not really a swimming lake. You might wade in it, but it is more like a pond than a lake.
Since Cabin 4 is not used as much, the campsite felt cleaner than Cabins 2 and 3. The outhouse was less full and had the bonus of a working hand sanitizer dispenser. We were also happy to see the bear-proof garbage and recycling bins still available 20 km into a backcountry trail. We made sure to dump our garbage again before settling in.
Cabin 4 is the furthest point you can reach on the Epinette Creek Trail before starting the south loop back toward Cabin 3. One of the hikers that day went all the way from the trailhead to Cabin 4, covering 20 km, and planned to hike out the next morning. If you prefer shorter hikes, you can stop at the cabins along the way or on the return trip instead of doing the full distance. We covered 20 km on Day 3, but that is a story for the next blog.
Day 2 Summary
Date: September 13, 2025
Distance: Cabin 3 to Cabin 4 (Jackfish Lake) – ~13.7 km / 8.5 mi
Elevation: 614 ft
Amenities:
Cabin 4: Pit toilet, warming cabin with wood stove, water pump, firepits, picnic tables, bear-proof garbage and recycling bins
Water Sources: Only available at cabin water pumps.
Wildlife: Deer tracks and plentiful bear scat. Coyotes yapping in the evening.
Navigation: Wide, mowed trail with clear signage to the next cabin. Don’t turn on the roads that you cross.
Best Time to Hike: Spring (before ticks) or fall (after ticks)
In this post, we share some of the places we go to pick up outdoor gear for our backcountry trips. From storefronts in Winnipeg to online shops that ship across Canada, these are the resources we have found useful along the way. Our hope is that this list helps fellow hikers and campers track down the supplies they need for their own adventures. Note: At this time, none of these links are affiliate links. We are simply sharing resources we have personally found helpful.
Storefront Locations in Winnipeg
As we are now Winnipeg locals, we are on the lookout for places to stock up on gear and supplies for our hikes. The city has several solid options for outdoor enthusiasts. These are the storefronts we have found most useful so far. If you know of others, we would love to hear about them.
Store
Location / Address
What They Specialize In / Strengths
What to Expect / Caveats
Wilderness Supply Co. Ltd.
50 Isabel Street, Winnipeg
Big local outfitter. They carry camping, hiking, paddling, travel gear, boats (canoes, kayaks) and rentals/repairs.
It’s a great stop for specialty items you can’t always find at big box. They have a great supply of pre-made meals.
Prairie Summit Shop
Unit 1B – 675 Empress Street, Winnipeg
They stock brands like The North Face and are good for jackets, clothing, technical layering. We found the Smartwool clothing we were looking for here and on sale!
Less stock of tents, stoves, etc., but good supplement to a bigger outfitter. We arrived within 15 minutes of closing. They were very helpful and even though they had packed their meals away for the season, they brought them out for us.
MEC (Mountain Equipment Company)
303 Portage Avenue, Winnipeg
Classic outdoor/outfitter store. Good selection of backpacks, clothing, tents, footwear, accessories.
Prices can be premium. Being downtown, you will need to pay for parking.
Cabela’s / Bass Pro Shops
580 Sterling Lyon Parkway, Winnipeg
Big box outdoor / hunting / fishing store with a large footprint. Good for heavier gear, general outdoor supply, optics, tents, etc.
Skew toward hunting/fishing/outdoor lifestyle but do carry camping/hiking gear. Will not have the ultra-light tech gear that specialty shops do.
Atmosphere
Various locations
More of a sports / outdoor apparel / recreation gear store. Good for clothing, mid-range hiking gear, accessories.
Atmosphere doesn’t carry the same amount of gear it used to. Look for backpacks, thermarest sleeping pads and what food they may still carry in stock.
Mountain Warehouse
At Outlet Collection Winnipeg shopping centre
More of mainstream outdoor / clothing / walking / general gear at accessible prices.
Good for finding warm hiking layers. Watch clothing weight if planning distance hikes.
Online Wilderness Gear Stores for Backcountry Camping
If you are not able to find what you need in Winnipeg, there are many Canadian and North American online shops that carry a wide range of gear. Some focus on ultralight equipment, while others are great for clearance and discount deals.
Canadian ultralight company (BC). Tents, backpacks & trekking poles designed specifically for backcountry conditions. We use their tents and backpacks on our hikes.
This online marketplace for used & discounted outdoor gear is based out of Okotoks, Alberta. Great way to save money or find discontinued items. We have bought many items through this company. They are fast!
Based in Saskatchewan, this small Canadian company hand-makes ultralight hammocks, quilts, tarps, and accessories. We both have quilts made by Little Shop of Hammocks. You can customize your colours!
A Seattle-based company known for high-quality technical clothing and accessories like jackets, gloves, and gaiters. While not Canada-based, they ship here and their gear is well-suited to the variable weather you’ll face on backcountry trails.
Large sporting goods retailer with affordable camping and hiking gear. Their in-house brands (like Quechua) are great value for beginners. Consider this site for accessories such as underwear and gloves.
The Epinette Creek Trail is located in Spruce Woods Provincial Park, about 180 km from Winnipeg, Manitoba. The trail system consists of four connected loops that together create a total return distance of 41.7 km. These moderate trails—Spruce, Juniper, Tamarack, and Newfoundland—take hikers through prairie grasses, mixed forests, and rolling sandy hills.
The Epinette Creek Trail is a multi-use trail with year-round traffic, permitting hiking, biking, and winter activities. The backcountry campsites include cabins equipped with wood stoves. These are most often used in winter, as mice tend to be active during the summer months. Cabins are generally intended for emergency shelter, except for Jackfish Lake cabin, which can be reserved. One of the perks of the Epinette Creek Trail is that you don’t need reservations. When we hiked in 2025, park entry fees were waived until March 31, 2026, making it an especially budget-friendly adventure.
After moving from Labrador to Manitoba this summer, we were eager to find a short weekend hike to scratch the itch of getting outdoors. Google suggested a few options, but the Epinette Creek Trail stood out because it allowed us the flexibility to shorten our trip if needed.
While Oliver had hiked the Arizona Trail earlier in the year, Cheryl was just coming out the other side of medical roadblocks and hadn’t been on a hike since her diagnosis. This would be her first strenuous exercise, and we weren’t sure if her body would be as willing as her mind. We needed a trail that would let us opt out of sections if necessary, but still continue if things went well. It also had to not be too challenging, since we didn’t know how much would be too much. The Epinette Creek Trail turned out to be the right choice for our circumstances. On September 12, 2025, we set out from Winnipeg with our dog, Watson, to explore Spruce Woods Provincial Park.
Day 1: Epinette Creek Trail Trailhead to Cabin 3
Driving to Spruce Woods Provincial Park
We began our drive from Winnipeg after Cheryl’s specialist appointment that morning. The drive was uneventful as we made our way west past Portage la Prairie and into Austin, where we stopped at Subway for a quick bite to eat. We then turned south toward Carberry before finally reaching Spruce Woods Provincial Park.
Our first stop was the Friends of Spruce Woods Provincial Park Gift Shop, where we looked for additional information about the route before hitting the trail. The gift shop hours do change, so check their calendar for the dates and times they are open. The Visitor Centre was already closed for the season, so it was a very short visit. We then went back up the road to the turnoff for Epinette Creek Trail. The signs off the main road are well marked with large wooden signs to direct you where to go.
Trailhead and Parking
The road in passes through an open grassy field before you arrive at a dirt parking lot. Here you’ll find the access points for Epinette Creek Trail and a portion of the Trans Canada Trail, which eventually leads to the Yellow Quill Trails. There were a few cars already in the parking lot, but we weren’t concerned about space since there was plenty for everyone. If you aren’t in a rush to start hiking, you can wander around and read the interpretive signs in the area.
Cabin 1 is located right at the parking lot. If you arrive extremely late and don’t want to hike in the dark, I could see why you might camp here. It would be most appropriate in the winter months, when it’s ideal for staging cross-country ski trips, warming up while switching into winter gear, or waiting for friends to arrive.
Hiking to Cabin 2 (1.5 km)
The first trail sign for the Epinette Creek Trail is beside Cabin 1. You’ll have no difficulty spotting the trail—it’s a wide, two-track path that has been worn from use and frequently mowed. The ground was quite level as well, which meant we could walk without worrying about twisting an ankle or tripping on roots. We had wondered if the trail would eventually narrow, but it stayed this wide for all four loops.
Approximately 1.5 km from the parking lot is Cabin 2. The hike in is an easy stroll through open grassy plains before leading into the trees, where the cabin is tucked down a hill. There is adequate signage to find your way, and the trail leads straight to the entrance. At Cabin 2 you’ll find a hand pump, a firepit surrounded by benches, picnic tables, garbage and recycling bins, and an outhouse. Inside, there’s a logbook to sign.
We had heard from other hikers who camped there that mice were active in the evening, so they preferred to pitch their tents outside instead of sleeping in the cabin.
The wide and mowed Tamarack Loop trail.
Toward Cabin 3 (~7.5 km): Tree Tunnels, Fall Colors, and Wildlife
We didn’t stay long at Cabin 2 and continued down the trail. There were sandy patches here and there, but eventually we were led into tree tunnel after tree tunnel. This wasn’t an issue, since we appreciated the shade when temperatures rose. Bear scat soon became frequent, evidence that they had been eating berries in the area.
Since we went in the fall, the trail was surrounded by vibrant color. We enjoyed greens, yellows, oranges, and reds, with leaves gently falling to the ground in front of us. We spotted mushrooms and wildflowers along the way.
Before a large sandy hill we had to climb, we came across a creek running through a culvert. A beaver had built a dam both at the culvert and a little further upstream. This was the only water source between Cabin 2 and Cabin 3, but we recommend stocking up at Cabin 2 rather than drinking from the beaver pond. As we climbed the sandy hill, we saw beaver prints in the dirt and a freshly chewed stump from the resident.
We continued on, passing more bear scat and deer tracks along the way. What impressed us most was how easy the trail remained. The condition was consistent—well mowed and clear—and the difficulty never increased. Rolling hills broke up the terrain, but aside from the sandy climb by the creek, there were no steep sections. We stopped for a snack at a viewpoint bench and then carried on to finish the last few kilometers.
Watson resting at the viewpoint.
Arriving at Cabin 3
The trail pointed straight to the water pump, so we knew we had reached our destination when it came into view. Several tents were already set up nearby. As we explored, we found the outhouse, the cabin, and two picnic tables with firepits. Unfortunately, there are no bear storage lockers on these trails, and we even noticed bear scat near the outhouse. We used the garbage bins to get rid of food wrappers and stored our bear-proof food canisters inside the cabin.
Since we were hiking with our dog Watson—and Cheryl wanted practice setting up her own gear for future solo hikes—we opted to bring two tents. Cheryl camped in the Durston X-Mid 2p with Watson, while Oliver camped in the Durston X-Mid 1p that he had used on the Arizona Trail.
Our tenting spot at Cabin 3.
Evening in Camp
After dinner, the students from the other tents returned from day-hiking the Newfoundland Loop, which we planned to hike the next day. They were on a school trip working toward their Duke of Edinburgh Award and had been practicing fire-starting with flint and steel. We shared fire starting tips before we finally turned in for the night.
Watson curled up happily on his sleeping mat, and we quickly fell asleep—thankfully with no bear visitors that we were aware of.
Epinette Creek Trail Conditions and Scenery
Trail conditions on the Epinette Creek Trail were excellent. The path was wide, with no concerns about packs snagging on branches or needing to climb over fallen trees. We even noted the lack of spiderwebs across the trail, likely because the path is so broad.
Since we hiked in the fall, the leaves were just beginning to change colour. A few were starting to fall, creating a beautiful seasonal backdrop. The trail was very well maintained, with few branches or roots underfoot that could trip you up. There were several scenic viewpoints to pause and enjoy a snack—though only one spot had a bench.
The scenery shifts often along this section, alternating between open spaces and denser vegetation. Even though the trail itself is easy, it never feels monotonous because there’s always something new to see in the plant life around you.
Cabin Amenities and Tips
Water: The pump at Cabin 3 was functional but noisy. If you’re an early riser, consider collecting water the night before to avoid disturbing others in the morning.
Outhouses: At Cabin 3, the outhouse had no hand sanitizer left, which isn’t unusual since it appeared to be the most used cabin of the four. If you want sanitizer, be sure to pack your own. Toilet paper wasn’t an issue, though we always bring extra just in case.
Firewood: We noticed very little firewood at Cabin 2, but we didn’t stay long enough to search thoroughly. Cabin 3, however, had plenty.
Final Thoughts on Epinette Creek Trail – Day 1
Day 1 on the Epinette Creek Trail made for a smooth and enjoyable start. The trail was wide, well-marked, and very well maintained. Campsites were clean and thoughtfully equipped with basic amenities. There was plenty of toilet paper, the water pumps worked, and we found enough firewood for a campfire. Having garbage and recycling bins available was an unexpected bonus, something you don’t often see in backcountry hiking. It was nice not to have to pack out every bit of trash.
We aren’t accustomed to such wide trails, as most of our hiking has been on narrow singletrack with some overgrowth. While we had expected this style of trail on the Mantario, wildfires had closed it this year. Even if it had been open, easing back into hiking after medical issues would have made us hesitate.
One surprise was the sheer amount of bear scat. We had originally left the bear spray at home, thinking it unnecessary this far south in Manitoba. After seeing fresh scat along the trail and later hearing from another hiker who had a stand-off with two bears by Cabin 4 earlier this year, we decided that bringing bear spray would be a good idea next time.
Day 1 Summary
Date: September 12, 2025
Distance: Trailhead to Cabin 3 – 9 km / 5.5 mi
Elevation Gain: 521 ft
Amenities:
Cabin 1: Pit toilet, warming cabin with wood stove, water pump, bear-proof garbage and recycling bins
Cabin 2: Pit toilet, warming cabin with wood stove, water pump, firepit, picnic tables, benches, bear-proof garbage and recycling bins
Cabin 3: Pit toilet, warming cabin with wood stove and sleeping loft, water pump, firepit, picnic tables, bear-proof garbage and recycling bins
Water Sources: One beaver-occupied creek; otherwise, only available at cabin water pumps
Wildlife: Deer tracks, beaver prints, and plentiful bear scat (especially between Cabins 2 and 3, and near Cabin 3’s outhouse)
Navigation: Wide, mowed trail with clear signage showing distances to the parking lot and next cabin
Best Time to Hike: Spring (before ticks) or fall (after ticks)
If you’ve been following my journey as I plan to hike the Appalachian Trail in two years, you’ll know that saving for the trip is a big part of the process. My goal is to set aside $10,000 over 104 weeks.
Most $10,000 savings plans are designed to be completed in just one year, which can be a heavy hit to your finances. Stretching the goal over two years makes the weekly amounts more manageable and easier to stick with long-term.
To help others on a similar path, I’ve created two free resources you can download:
A PDF tracker for those who prefer paper
An Excel spreadsheet for those who like to track and customize digitally
Here’s how they work:
The PDF Print it out and follow the columns from top to bottom—or jump around and fill in a square each week. Once all 104 squares are complete, you’ll have $10,000 saved.
The Excel File My personal favorite. You can enter the exact amount you save each week, whether it’s a regular deposit or a little extra from unexpected income. The spreadsheet updates automatically, showing you how much you’ve saved and what’s still ahead.
